23. Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

Camino Frances - Day 26 - September 21st. 2013: Ponferrada to Villafranca (23rd. day walking)

Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes

Click here for Google Map and my starting point today






















I left the Hotel at 7am and felt full of energy and looking forward to getting back to the solitude of the pathway. 

I came across the guys in Camponaraya just as they were about to leave a small cafe (Asador - not in these photos but on my flickr page) having finished their breakfast. I decided it was time to stop for my own breakfast and as I left my gear at one of the tables outside the guys warned me not to expect a warm welcome in the cafe. I ordered an omelet with cheese and ham only to be informed that they had no cheese or ham. I settled for eggs in roll. The eggs were prepared as if it was an omelet but with nothing added, not even any love : (. Just as the egg was being placed in the roll she sliced some cheese, which had miraculously appeared from somewhere, on top of the egg. Was there any ham hiding about the place. The guys were right. I did not feel welcome in this place and was happy to get out of the cafe to the outside table. There I ate half of what I had been given but I had no interest in spending any more time here than I needed to. I have no idea if they reserved this unfriendly attitude for pilgrims or if they were having a particularly bad day, did the cat die? whatever. I gave them no reason for their unpleasantness. I ordered everything in my best Spanish, flawed as it is it served me well u to this point and beyond. I decided to just let it go and not let it get in on me and spoil my good feeling. 

Ger showing his true colours : )

Need to find Albergue with WiFi for tomorrow night:
I caught up with the guys again in Casabelos, Arthur from Melbourne was also taking a break here. They had just confirmed that the Albergue were were considering to stay in tomorrow did not have WiFi. Why, I hear you say, is that important when many of the albergues did not have working WiFi. Well the answer is simple. Tomorrow we need to find somewhere with WiFi so we can listen to the All Ireland Senior Football Final between Dublin and Mayo. 

Ed is a proud Mayo man and Jim, now living in Canada, is also a Mayo man. Ger and I will be supporting the Dubs (Dublin) 

Bob

After a few phone calls we managed to secure six beds in a small Albergue in Ruitelán. So with the venue for the match sorted the plans for today and tomorrow were revised. We would only go as far as Villafranca today, a total of about 20Klms and a short 18Klms tomorrow would take us to Ruitelán. Two short days after three marathons and what promises to be a great game to look forward to.

Ed and Jim

Villafranca:
Reunited with the guys again in Villafranca we found a really nice Albergue at the top of the town located on the exit road for the following morning. 

Ronan and Ger

We showered and then bundled all our clothes for washing in a couple of buckets, one green and one red (Mayo colours) to be wash and dried by the staff at the Albergue. A great service. I think Ed took the couloured buckets as a good omen for tomorrow, only time will tell. We had a couple of beers (yes more beers) and some food at a very busy restaurant in the square. Many of the Albergues in the town were full to capacity because a local festival was commencing today and running into tomorrow. I returned to the Albergue to update my notes. There I met Jim who had left earlier. We had a long chat. I then tried to nap for a few minutes but failed to nod off. I returned to the square and find Ronan, Ger, Bob and Ed relocated to a different table across the square where they had a better view of proceedings. (I should mention at this stage that Ger was joined by his son Ronan who planned to accompany his dad for the latter part of the journey. Ger was over the moon with excitement when waiting for Ronan to join him and very proud, as he should be, that his son was taking time out to be here with his dad.) We all purchased a few goodies for late and tomorrow before heading back to base and eventually settling down for the night. The six of us were sharing a room with four others who were very loud but they too eventually calmed down and sleep came at last.

Pétanque being played by locals in Villafranca

The photo above shows local people, mostly men, playing Pétanque. That's the French word for it but I don't know if the Spanish people also use this name. It is similar to the game of boules most English or Irish people would be familiar with.

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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow 

Ponferrada:

Images of Ponferrada on the internet

Wikipedia on Ponferrada 

Villafranca del Bierzo:
Images of Villafranca del Bierzo on the internet
Wikipedia on Villafranca del Bierzo

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24. Villafranca to Ruitelán

Camino Frances - Day 27 - September 22nd. 2013: Villafranca to Ruitelán (24th. day walking)

Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes

NOTE: Ruitelán, not shown on the contour map, is located between Valcarce and Herrerias.
Click here for Google Map and my starting point today

ALL IRELAND FOOTBALL FINAL DAY  - DUBLIN Vs MAYO

Ed looking a bit worried after Mayo begin to lose their early lead

While the guys decided to have breakfast before leaving Villafranca I started walking. I stopped in Trabedalo for for a ham and cheese roll, no omelet today. I had a nice leisurely break here before setting off for Ruitelán, reaching my destination shortly after 11am. 

Ruitelán:
I reached Ruitelán, passing a nice looking little cafe before reaching the Albergue we had booked yesterday The  Albergue Pequeño Potala was still locked up and looked a little rough around the outside but you should never judge a book by it's cover. I went back to cafe to wait fr the Albergue to open or the guys to arrive, which ever came first. It was really hot and I was not ready to eat yet so I set myself up at a table in the shade out front and ate my ice cream and sipped a cool mineral (too early for a beer). 

When the guys arrived we all made our way to the Albergue which way due to open at 1pm. We sat in a raised patio area overlooking the narrow road that passes through this small, quiet town. After checking in, showering and changing into fresh clothes we made our way back to the cafe but not before checking the WiFi signal. Jim confirmed his tablet was fully charged. Now we just had to wait for the main event. We had a pint and some food in the small cafe and then made haste to our patio, the best seats in the house, for the All Ireland Senior Football Final.

The images say it all

Tina on the right

THE MAIN EVENT:

With Ed and Jim firmly behind Mayo and Ger and myself passionate supporters of the Dubs the neutrals started to take sides. This may have had something to do with where they put their money. We all put 5euro in a pot and made a forecast on the final score. Naturally the neutrals followed their money. I managed to get Tina (from Germany) to let out the occasional roar (a timid one because she is petite) 'Come on the Dubs' : ) Thanks Tina.

Ed and Mayo going downhill

Ed, resigned to Mayo's destiny

I am not going to write an account of the game because it is said a picture speaks a thousand words. Have a look at Ed as he becomes more and more deflated as Mayo fail, again, to bring Sam (the cup) home. Not only did the Dubs win but I won the pot of gold, or the pot of fivers.  

Mayo men still smiling, good sports'

The celebrations:
After victory come the celebrations so we all made our way across the road to the only bar in town to spent the pot of fivers. We left the bar after a few drinks and returned to our albergue to eat our evening meal. We were served outside on the patio. The food, the beers, the game, the result, the craic, what could make it better. Well how a bout a singalong.  Ronan surprised everyone with his guitar playing and vocals. 

And so ends one of the really great days on the Camino. Tomorrow is likely to punish any sore heads in the group. Steep climb to 1300mtrs and a hike of more than 30Klms. : )

Several pints later, heading back for pilgrim dinner

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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow 

Villafranca del Bierzo:

mages of Villafranca del Bierzo on the internet
Wikipedia on Villafranca del Bierzo

Ruitelán:

Images of Ruitelán on the internet
Wikipedia on Ruitelán
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