The Middle

“There comes . . . a longing never to travel again except on foot.”  - Wendell Berry

I have given much thought to how I should record this, the 'Middle', part of my story. As I already mentioned this is not a step by step guide to the Camino because it simply represents the experiences of a single individual on his first Camino. That's insufficient experience to advise anyone else on what to do or what not to do, before, during or after they undertake their own journey. That's my disclaimer : )

The real challenge for me has been deciding how to record this very personal journey in a way that gives the reader some sense of what I experienced but also captures the memories in a way that will assist me over time to recall this wonderful event in my life. I decided to open a new post for each day I was walking. The first entry in each post is a contour map for the stage walked, I then insert a link to Google Maps showing the starting point for that day, followed by a very brief account of that stage. 

I also include a few links in each post. These links will take you to images posted on the internet (NOT MINE) of some of the towns on that specific section of the route. I have inserted a Wikipedia link for the same towns. The images selected are very random and often have nothing to do with the search criteria but that's the Internet for you. Sometimes Wikipedia has very little information on the smaller towns or the link may be to the Spanish version of Wikipedia. You can use the 'Translate' button to get the English translation. 

Oh, each section does include many of my own photographs and a link to my Flickr page where most of my Camino photos are stored.

Finally a section on a specific topic. Let me explain the approach to the 'topics' section within the post. As I walked along the way, or in the evenings while chilling out, different experiences would arise and many would reoccur several times along the way. Rather than address each topic in bits and pieces as they occurred I have chosen to deal with the topic in it's entirety under one section. I'm not sure I have explained this very well but read on to see how this works out. 

The Middle section will include many topics e.g. 
- Who walks the Camino, 
- Aches, pains and blisters,
- Dreams,
- Albergues
- Snoring and more.
- Fisterra experience
- Walking alone or in the company of others,
- Desensitise, Resensitise
- Equipment and squeaky shoulder.
and Many other subjects.

A list of topics can be found under the 'Labels' section of this blog. Once a topic has been added to a post it will automatically get added to the labels drop down list.

1: St Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles

Camino Frances - Day 1 - August 27th 2013:  St Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles

Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes

Click here for Google Map and my starting point today

Despite waking early after a  very poor night's sleep I could hear many people outside, already on their way. I took my time getting ready because I knew I would have to wait for the shops to open so I could at least have some water for the journey ahead. I set off at about 9am immediately after purchasing a couple of litres of water. My backpack was stuffed to capacity, I had an extra bag strapped to that and now I had to use all the pockets in my trousers to carry Notebook, Guide Book, Water etc. My camera was strapped to my chest for easy access and to stop it bouncing around.  The weight of everything in my trouser pockets was pulling them down so I had to tighten the belt almost to the point of strangulation. Five minutes into the walk I knew I would have to revisit the packing arrangements. 

 I set off at a reasonable pace full of enthusiasm and energy. Well, this first stage is truly a baptism of fire as you are immediately faced with a steep incline. This should not have been a surprise because over the course of today's stage you start out at 170mtrs, rising to 1,450Mtrs and finally descending to Roncesvalles at 1000Mtrs.  I passed many people who were taking it really easy at first and I decided I too should slow down If I was going to make it all the way today. 

I passed a middle aged women from the US who was struggling. She had a massive backpack and wore very heavy clothing. I spoke with her for a few minutes and she assured me she was fine because she had booked her place in Alberge Orisson, about 10Kms into this stage. I thought that perhaps I too should have booked ahead but that's not how I wanted to make this journey. 

I sat on a rock at the side of the trail to take a short break, write some notes and have a drink of water. A Canadian family, Mum, Dad and two daughters came by. The father had arrived first and we had spoken about our intentions and he planned to walk with his family all the way to Santiago. When they joined us he said to his wife and girls, 'Hey look, this guy sitting on the rock taking notes is Irish, just like in the movie, how cool is that' ............

I reached Alberge Orisson at about 11am. It was too early to stop walking for the day but it had been a difficult start to my journey and I was already questioning why I did not do a bit of serious training for this trek. However, I was still hoping that my fitness would improve over the coming days

Outside Alberge Orisson. Some of pilgrims looked like they were settling down for a relaxing day

I ordered a ham and cheese roll and an fresh orange juice and enquired about accommodation for the night. I was advised that they only had a small tent with an airbag left if I was interested. I declined, sat outside with my brunch, took a few photos and considered my options. Already tired I was looking at another 18kms across the Pyrenees to the next available place to put my head down. I decided to push ahead and put this first challenge behind me today. 

The weather was cloudy and cool but perfect for walking with 30lbs (13.6kgs) on your back. The scenery was spectacular but as I climbed higher a heavy mist swept across the mountains. The 18klms was even more difficult than the first part of the ascent to Orisson. It just seemed to be going up forever and just when I thought I could go no further I came to the descent. This too is steep and in many ways even more difficult to manage that when going up. 

I met a lot of people today and chatted with them whenever I stopped, or they stopped. I met English, Irish, French, Canadians and a guy from Turkey. We had been overlapping until we both stopped at a water font and got to know a little bit about each other. He worked for a bank in Turkey until 2010 when the bank closed down and he found himself out of work. He then set about forming his own training company and quickly made a great success of it so much so that he could now take time out to walk the Camino.  

I was totally exhausted by the time I reached Roncesvalles and could not imaging trying to sleep in a crowded room. So I checked into the Roncevalles Hotel, my last treat I told myself and one I deserved after surviving this first, difficult, challenge. A small bit of me felt guilty because I was determined to use the Albergues as often as possible and here I was spoiling myself on the first night. I asked for a room with a bath and was assured that all the rooms had baths. Nice as the room was it only had a shower (language issue?)but it was big enough for me to sit down in and run a cool spray over the base of my two feet until they felt almost normal again.

I decided that I would not shave over the course of the next couple of weeks although I must confess that I love that clean shaved feeling each morning.

My head is still full of everyday stuff. I had little hope of clearing it out while struggling through this first stage, Maybe tomorrow? 

I think I need to be less wordy about my day if I am ever to get this blog finished.

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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow 

St Jean-Pied-de-Port:

Images of St-Jean-Pied-De-Port available on the internet

Wikipedia on St-Jean-Pied-De-Port

Roncesvalles:

Images of Roncesvalles available on the internet

Wikipedia on Roncesvalles

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Topic: Who walks the Camino.

I gave little thought to the other people I might encounter on the Camino before I set off on this trip. I was focused on my journey and still unclear about my motivation but with a creeping suspicion that it was more spiritual than it was a physical challenge. 

So, in the course of my Camino trek, and bear in mind that I was not walking in the peak time, I met people from all over the world, each with a common goal albeit with different reasons for undertaking this personal pilgrimage. Boys and girls, men and women, young and old and every shape and size you can imagine. They came from countries near and far, many with unlimited time to complete their personal pilgrimage and others with only a short break from their 'normal' routine to take this precious time out to meet their own objectives. 

Somehow, our different ages, nationalities and drive to undertake this journey becomes as one common experience. You no longer see any difference, just, like minded individuals sharing a common purpose. Perhaps this is one of the great gifts of the Camino experience. I spoke with many young pilgrims who admitted to never having spent time speaking with older people. There are many reasons why this is so common but I believe some of them will go back home with a new outlook and maybe share some of their precious time with their older family members. 

The group who I found to be the most inspirational walkers on the Camino were the older women, those around my own age and even older. They just got on with the journey despite injuries, aches and pains. They didn't complain choosing instead to get out there every day and walk. 

2: Roncesvalles to Zubiri

Camino Frances - Day 2 - August 28th 2013:  Roncesvalles to Zubiri

Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes

Click here for Google Map and my starting point today

I awoke at about 8:30 am feeling refreshed and ready to start day two of my journey. I was aware now that most pilgrims had already starting walking but I was determined to do this my way and not feel compelled to join in the 'race'.  This is not the busy season so accommodation should not be a problem, at least that's what I had read prior to leaving Ireland. I took my time, had a leisurely breakfast in the hotel, walked around the very small town and took a few photos and finally got my camino credentials stamped in the monastery. Back in the hotel I decided to try and jettison some items to lighten my backpack. I only managed to get rid of a book I knew I would not have time to read. I rearranged some items, packed up and left at about 11:30am. 

I was more relaxed today having put day one behind me. I was not on the road very much but instead walking quiet pathways through the beautiful Spanish countryside. I think I could feel myself beginning, only beginning, to chill out. I found the terrain easier too and I was so confident this pilgrimage would not present me with any difficulties. (a bit early to come to that conclusion)

I stopped in Viskarret for a break. When I started back on the road I was stiff and walking like an old man, even older than me. I felt drained and I had to drop back my pace considerably. After a few kilometres I suddenly felt rejuvenated and my energy was restored, the stiffness was gone again and I was walking faster than at any stage to date. I did notice my hips were getting a bit sore as indeed were my feet, mostly around my toes and the balls of my feet. 

I found really nice accommodation in Zubiri at Albergue El palo de avellano. It was very modern, spotlessly clean with every facility you could ask for. At €17 for a bed and breakfast it was dearer than most but worth the difference. Dinner was €12 extra which I booked and I looked forward to my first real shared experience with other pilgrims. (NOTE: To keep it simple I will refer to all those making this journey along the Camino as pilgrims even though many prefer other titles)

Those sitting at the table I joined included a young Spanish couple, two German couples and a Brazilian cyclist. His name is Valentino (what a cool name) and he had been given a two week pass, by his very understanding wife, to complete the Camino Frances on his bike. He did 50Kms today and planned to do 70Kms tomorrow. He was optimistic about completing the journey in time to catch his flight back home. It was here that I first met Stefanie and Daniel a young German couple who became a very important part of my experience on the Camino.

I was relieved to hear so many young people complain about the weight of their backpack and of their aches and pains. It assured me that I was not alone in my suffering and that it was not all age related, old age that is.

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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow 

Roncesvalles:

Images of Roncesvalles available on the internet

Wikipedia on Roncesvalles

Zubiri:

Images of Zubiri available on the internet

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Topic: Modes of transport.

There are so many ways people may choose to travel along the Camino. The vast majority do so on foot and even this group may undertake the task in different ways.

The first thing to note is that most people have a limited amount of time because they have jobs or family to get back to so they may not be able to complete the entire journey at once. I do not believe there is a single right way to undertake your personal journey. People choose a mode of transport that s suits their specific circumstances determined by many factors most of which we, the observer, may know little about.  So, we should never judge or criticise others or in any way feel our method is superior to others.  

Horsepower: Horse or BMW

Horsepower: I only came across a few people who appeared to be making the journey on horseback but I do not believe they where travelling very far if I was to judge by the lack of any backpack attached to the horse. This would be a challenging way to travel based on some of the very difficult, rocky, terrain on stretches of the Camino. Perhaps not so for an experienced rider?

This gentleman, above, and his donkey, or burro I think it is in Spanish, did indeed travel the entire Camino Frances and maybe further as I did not establish where he started from. I came across them on many occasions and they always attracted lots attention. I have several photos of them on my flickr page

This man I spotted on the road to the lighthouse at Fisterra and again I have no idea how far to had travelled but it sure is a novel way to make the journey. (Note: I have seen many ways of spelling the name of the town Fisterra but I choose the one above because it's what I saw on the local road signs.)

Perhaps even more unique is this young man on his unicycle, also on the road to the lighthouse. 

Walkers did make up the vast majority of the pilgrims on the Camino but even this group occasionally resorted to alternative means of transport. Taxis were used occasionally to take the individuals to the end of a stage if someone was injured or exhausted. Sometimes they were used to bapass industrial areas or to assist an individual to bypass a couple of stages so they would arrive in Santiago to catch their flight. Some groups used hired coaches to take them part of they way, they would then walk for some part of the stage before resuming the rest of the journey on board the coach. Others had their backpacks transported to prebooked hostels or hotels while they walked with their day bag. 

I am not judging any of these modes of transport because I simply do not know what constraints they each had to cope with. I am fortunate to enjoy good health and being retired I can afford the time to walk the Camino at my own pace with no limits in terms of time. I also wanted to experience the journey with a fully loaded backpack and to take my chances along the way with securing a place to sleep. Which, to be honest, was rarely a problem.

There were occasions along the way when I was very tempted to take a taxi, especially when I felt unwell but I was determined to complete this journey on foot  as I promised myself and to the memory of my brother, Tom. 

3: Zubiri to Pamplona

Camino Frances - Day 3 - August 29th 2013: Zubiri to Pamplona

Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes

Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes

Click here for Google Map and my starting point today
I didn't sleep well last night. This was my first night sleeping in a room with other pilgrims so maybe this had something to do with me not drifting off to sleep. I also kept feeling leg cramps starting up so I was constantly moving my legs to prevent the cramps developing into a full lock down and me screaming in pain. Us men are so bad with pain. Valentino was in the bed next to me and beyond him was Karin, from Germany who I met so many times along the way. 

I got up at 5:45am and after the morning rituals went downstairs for breakfast. I met a young couple who live in Sydney, she is from Mulingar originally and he is Australian. I set off from Zubiri at about 7:30am. and I considered walking all the way to Pamplona without stopping. About halfway along this stage I came across a small place serving pizzas cooked fresh or reheated in a stone oven. It was like an oasis in the desert.

I had a large slice of pizza and a fresh orange juice, updated my notes and prepared for the final push to complete this stage. I arrived in Pamplona at about 1pm, checked into Albergue Ibarrola, washed my clothes and lay down for an hour before setting off to explore the city. 

I walked all around the centre of the city before making a tour of the fabulous Cathedral. Later I sat outside the famous Cafe Iruna and often associated with Hemmingway. I had a couple of beers and watched the world go by.

A band started to play in a bandstand and everyone just started to dance together. Total strangers, all joining in the spirit of the occasion. It must have been a native dance because everyone knew the steps. Once the music stopped everyone went about their business, Amazing. 

I went inside the Cafe Iruna and had dinner before setting off for the Albergue before lock out. 

The city had come alive with young people sitting down all over the streets, eating, drinking and just having a great time, Recession, what recession.

Back in the Albergue I took a scissors to the end of my sleeping bag liner because I always sleep with my feet sticking out from under the covers. 




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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow 

Zubiri:

Images og Zubiri on the internet

Pamplona:

Images of Pamplona available on the internet

Wikipedia on Pamplona

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Topic: Why walk the Camino

Why do people walk the Camino and if they were to do it all over again, now knowing what they know, would their motivation be any different? 

When I first decided to undertake this walk it was just another item on my bucket list. Over time, as I have already written about, my motivation changed. This was partly down to what I read about the challenge but also by events in my life. Probably the most significant being the death of my brother Tom, at the age of just 64, on April 6th 2013. Tom and I had often spoke about the Camino and I know he would love to have been able to make the trip but due to his poor health it was not possible.  He was a very religious man and I know his pilgrimage would have differed somewhat to my own. While I am not religious I am spiritual and after Tom died I decided that I would take lock of Tom's hair with me so that he could, in spirit at least, complete the walk. More about that later... I also wanted some time alone, some peace and quiet to reflect of just about anything that came into my head. To achieve these objectives I declared I would walk alone. I did not shun company but dipped in and out briefly with other individuals before breaking away again to be with my own thoughts. 

Another idea I had before setting off was that I would chat with people, listen to their stories and document it here on the blog. I changed my mind on this almost as soon as I started walking. Most people were very open and only too willing to share their stories. Many were inspirational, some were heart breaking, in fact, there were as many reasons as there were pilgrims. I could not tell their stories, they were too personal and it was their story to tell should they ever wish to go public on that. 

So, I am happy to share my motivation and to list why some others travel this path without attaching the story to any individuals.

To Give Thanks:
Some were walking to give thanks for their life, for recovering from a serious illness themselves or on behalf of others in recovery

For the dead:
Many walked the Camino to remember a family member or friend who died. They may have died in the distant past or very recently. It was heart breaking to hear some stories, children who died, siblings, parents and partners. Some died of natural causes while others died in tragic circumstances

To Forget:
I met some who wanted to put a period of their life behind them and start anew. People who were separated from spouse or family members. Others recovering from depression who wanted to push themselves, to challenge themselves and confront their fears.

To Understand:
Some were trying to understand some part of their life which has been causing them grief and worry and they are seeking solutions a remedy to let them move on or get on with others.

To Explore:
Most of the young people I met were doing the Camino because it was there or they were about to start their working life after completing college and they felt this may be the last opportunity they will have for many years to complete the journey in one go.

To meet like minded people:
There is a social aspect to the Camino too and many people who come back time after time to either walk a part of the way, repeat the whole route over and over or try different routes will tell you that they love meeting people from  every walk of life and spending some time in their company.

Religious:
It was no surprise to find a religious aspect associated with the motivation of pilgrims. What was surprising though was how people did not openly display this side of their pilgrimage. People were quietly getting on with it without any overt display of piety. Not that such displays would have bothered me as I expected to see it all along the way. As I spoke with some people the subject might arise and it was lovely to hear how strong their faith was and how much they enjoyed that aspect of their personal experience. Yes, even me, a stone cold atheist , can appreciate and tolerate the belief system of others : ). 

Actually, I must tell you a story while we are on this subject and you can make up your own mind about what actually happened. It was September 4th. and I had just taken a short break in Navarette. I was only back on my way when I came across a church and I decided to stop and take a few photos. 

I took off my backpack and placed it against a tree across the pathway and opposite the entrance to the church, The base of the tree had a decorative iron grid all the way around it so I inserted my walking poles in the holes of this decorative grid so they would stand up in front of my backpack and ensure I would not walk off without them. 

With the photos taken I set off again. About 50Mts up the road I noticed one of my poles was making a bit of a racket . I checked it and noticed that the rubber cover was missing, I guessed it must have come off as I removed the pole from the grid. I went back, breaking one of my little rules that I would never go back, always forward. I could see the rubber cover about 25cm (10ins for my generation) below the grid surface. I went down on my knees to see if |I could get my hand through the grid to retrieve the rubber and get back on my way. I reached it and drew it back up. So, there I was on my knees outside a church when I noticed, in the corner of my eye, a couple probably of my generation, coming in my direction and joining their hands as if in prayer. Now at my age getting up from a kneeling position is not done in one swift action, instead, it is a slow process. It occurred to me that they assumed I was in prayer and were going to join me. I may have been wrong but I did decide that if they got to me and started to pray ahead of me getting to my feet that I would stay put and join in the ritual rather than embarrass them in their very well meaning gesture. As I got to my feet and they figured out what was going on they made a gentle change to their trajectory and were on their way. I was touched by what I thought had just happened but maybe they were just curious about this old guy rummaging around the base of a tree. They probably have a very different entry in their blog recalling this nutter and what they thought I was up to? What do you think? I like my version : )

4. Pamplona to Puente la Reina

Camino Frances - Day 4 - August 30th 2013: Pamplona to Puente la Reina

Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes

Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes

Click here for Google Map and my starting point today
I got up around 6am and went about the morning rituals again. Had a light breakfast and eventually set off at about 8am leaving Pamplona behind and setting my sights on Puente La Reina. A short distance into my walk I had my first meeting up with Michael and his wife Jane a really nice couple from the UK. He is a retired anaesthetist having worked in both in the UK and Australia. They were great company today and every time our paths crossed.

Wind Turbines:
From Cizur Menor I could see the massive wind turbines stretching all across the mountains in the distance. They looked so far away and yet marked only the half way point of the walk I planned for today. I love the open countryside and have often commented to others about building or structures that ruin the landscape, yet, I love these wind turbines. I know people can be divided on the subject and there is much debate about the noise when in close proximity to them. There was hardly a day while walking the Camino that I could not catch sight of them in the distance. Last year while on a US road trip they were dotted all along the west coast. I would love to see more of them in Ireland. Anyway, I digress, back to day 4 of my Camino experience.

Just as I was leaving Cizur Menor I heard the cries of a young baby coming from a small housing estate on the outskirts of the town. (see Topic below)

I am nursing blisters on the balls of both my feet today as well as some on my toes. My thighs were very painful for the first hour today too but that eased off gradually. I met a Russian guy who said he changes his socks every two hours and never gets a blister, too late now.  

Upon reaching Alto del Perdon you can see the larger than life metal sculptures dedicated to the pilgrims who walk the Camino. The views from here are spectacular. You may also get up close to the 'beautiful' wind turbines : ) I met Peter here, an Irish guy from Sligo but living in Dublin, he took the photo of me in front of the metal pilgrims. I also met Aileen and a couple who are actually friends with a family living very close to where I live. It's a small world.

As each pilgrim takes breaks at different times along the way it is normal to pass them and then they pass you out. Sometimes you will meet up and chat while taking a break or walk together for a brief while and get to know each other a little better. There is a great sense of having this common objective and unfortunately the same aches, pains and blisters. 

I made my way through Puente la Reina because the hostel Albergue Apostol, situated at the far end of the town, boasted a swimming pool. The trek up to hostel at the end of a long walk is steep but worth the effort. It's modern with great facilities. I never made it to the pool. I washed all my clothes, sorted out my gear, again, I may yet find the most efficient way to do this. 

At dinner I sat with John from Knocklyon, Vinny from Sligo but living in Clonmel. They were travelling on their bikes. Also at the table was Christine from Toronto, a young woman with an incredible knowledge of soccer not just in Canada and the US but right across the globe. We had good craic together. Also at the table, just outside my very limited hearing when in groups, was Antoinette from Leitrim and Ellie from Victoria in Southern Australia. I met with both Ellie and Antoinette on many more occasions over the course of my journey.  

Returning to my bed I turned my attention to my blistered feet. I decided I would put fresh dressing on them in the morning.
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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow 

Pamplona:

Images of Pamplona available on the internet

Wikipedia on Pamplona

Cizur Menor:

Images of Cizur Menor on the internet

Wikipedia on Cizur Menor - This is Spanish version, use the 'Translate' button for your language.

Alto del Perdon:

Images of Alto del Perdon on the internet

Puerte la Reina:

Images of Puerta la Reina on the internet

Wikipedia on Puerta la Reina - This is Spanish version, use the 'Translate' button for your language.

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Topic:  Desensitised - Resensitised
I think , as we make our way through life, we can become desensitised to the real world, the suffering and pain, the hunger and the strife all across the globe. We may acknowledge a situation or the suffering of others, we may make offers to help or give some small financial support but then move on without really empathising with those less fortunate than ourselves. I know there are many who devote their lives to helping others so I am not talking about them. I am talking about myself and most other people I know. How have we become so numb, so blind to everything that's wrong with the world and how do we continue to let it happen. I am not going to try and answer my own question, I'm just putting it out there. We become desensitised.

What I have noticed as I start to relax, to clear out all the clutter in my head, is that I have a renewed awareness. The further I go along the Camino, walking for hours on my own, the more I start to look into those things that are really important to me in my life. I think I am being resensitised (if that's a word, or two) to my surroundings. There are some stories I will relate to you later about my brother and my mother that would not have occurred had I not set out on this journey. Memories buried deep in my past that came to me while walking but that's for a different topic.

Talking about being resensitised, let me give you a couple of examples.

I was just outside Cizur Menor, observing the wind turbines all across the mountainside up to Alto del Perdon, the halfway point of this stage, when I heard the cries of a very young child. I looked back to where I believed the cries were coming from, it was a small housing estate on the outskirts of the town, about two or three hundred meters behind me.  I am a father and grandfather and like most parents we know the different cries of a child, they want food, changing, comforting etc. This cry struck me in my heart, I was stopped in my tracks unable to move and undecided what to do. I knew I could do nothing because it was really just a baby crying and sooner or later they would be comforted but I knew then that the protective layers I had built around myself, the same layers many of us build, were falling away and I was more in touch with my surrounding and my feeling than I had been for many years.

One evening, towards the end of my journey I received word from my Dad that an old friend had just a few short days to live after a long and painful struggle with cancer. I have not seen her for many years but she is still best friend to one of my sisters. I knew my sister's heart would be broken. I called my sister the next day while on the road and despite the fact that I had not seen this old friend for many years, the conversation with my sister brought the full scale of this tragic episode into context and it hit me like a sledge hammer. I had to stop walking and spent some time thinking about her and memories came back to me. I thought about how she must be feeling, her pain and now confronted with the end of her life. It's at these times that I would like to believe in some deity, someone to pray to but that not who I am. She died before I got home. Being resensitised is a wonderful experience but also a painful one.

5. Puente la Reina to Estella

Camino Frances - Day 5 - August 31st 2013: Puente la Reina to Estella

Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes

Click here for Google Map for my starting point today

Looking back at the ancient bridge as I leave Puente la Reina at 7;30am

Another restless night last night. I was actually cold and will have to keep my thermals close at hand in future to ensure I am not cold during the night. There are enough distractions (e.g. snoring and other noises) outside of my control keeping me awake at night without scoring an own goal by not wrapping up properly. After sharing breakfast with Antoinette, Vicki from California and Jane from England I set off at about 7:30am.  Ellie from Victoria caught up with me along the way and we walked together for a while. She is a young nurse and is travelling with her parents. Ellie suffers with Rheumatoid Arthritis but this did not deter her from pushing herself each day despite the pain. She used to love participating in various sporting activities but is now restricted to walking. She highly recommends sky diving, an item on my bucket list, so maybe I should move that one further up my list : ) She was great company and such a brave young woman. 

Sitting on this ancient bridge just beyond Cirauqui I spent a short while updating my diary but my main reason for stopping was to take a break from walking on my blistered feet. My left foot in particular was very painful with pain darting through my foot and into my leg.  I should have known by now that stopping often makes everything worse. When I started back on the road every muscle and bone in my body seemed to have seized up  and again I'm walking like someone 100 years old. I though the stiffness would pass as in previous days but no. I was now being passed by just about everyone I had passed earlier in the day. I stopped again just outside Villatuerta and sat on a bench in the shade of a couple of large trees. More familiar faces passed by, some stopping for a brief chat. One poor lady, looking as exhausted as I felt, stopped and asked me if she was approaching Estella. I had to inform her she still had about 4 klms. She was already shattered and this news seemed to drain the colour out of her face as if all hope had just abandoned her, still, she marched on. I got up again not feeling any better.

I noticed a small church just off the trail, the sign said 'Ermita de san Miguel Arcangel' despite being tired I felt compelled to make the short diversion and check it out. I address this part of my story later under a section about my brother Tom. Tom is on my mind every day.

Today I came across Alexandro from Napoli again. I met him on the first day when he came racing up behind me and looked capable of completing the Camino in record time. He slowed down and we talked. His English was not perfect but good enough for us to enjoy our conversation and start to get to know each other. I would meet Alexandro many times along the way. Such a really nice guy.  He had advised me when we first met to take it easy and to 'listen to my body' before he took off again at speed. However, today Alexandro was really suffering with his blistered feet. We walked together for a while. I think if we were to listen to our bodies we would each be heading back to our respective homes, taking to our bed and waiting for the aches to pass. 

I also walked behind three Irish lads who sang all 41 verses of 'Bog down in the Valley-oh'. I envied their energy level but eventually grew tired of the song. If they only knew something different but I don't think they did requests.

I passed through these wedding guests in Estella

Antoinette appeared on several occasions making good time. I also came across Stefanie and Daniel. She was not doing well between tiredness and trouble with her legs or feet. We discussed diet and the fact that, so far, there have been no green veg served with our evening meals, something we all agreed we missed very much. We all said we would not eat the pilgrim meal again but instead seek out a restaurant where we could enjoy some fresh vegetables.

As I walked into Estella I came across a wedding party. Everyone dressed in their best attire while I squeezed passed them in my sweat soaked clothes. They must have noticed. They were setting off deafeningly loud fireworks which echoed through the narrow streets while the smoke floated up between the building on this windless day. 

Arriving at Albergue Juvenil Oncineda (Mun) I was greeted by a very friendly young woman who said she loved Ireland having spend several summers there as a student. She gave me two options on accommodation, either a shared or a private room. Believing I had a better chance of a good night sleep if I was on my own I opted for the latter. As it turned out it was a room to sleep four but I would be the only occupant with a lock on the door. She asked me if I would be having dinner in the albergue and I immediately went back on what I had said to Stefanie earlier and said yes to the pilgrim dinner. My rational was that I knew I was too tired to head back into town so eating in was a better option on this occasion.  I showered, changed clothes, rinsed out a few items of

clothing and put them in the window to dry. I then went outside to take a few photos while enjoying the coolness of the late afternoon. I stood at the railings surrounding the albergue and watched some locals playing netball. I also took the opportunity to check out my exit route for the morning which involved heading out across the playing area in front of me, through a small industrial area and then rejoining the Camino route. 

Hungry now I went back inside and set off for the dining room, it was empty. A lady came out to greet me and, in her very poor English, explained that there were only three 'guests' in the very large albergue and the other two were not pilgrims. I would be dining alone. Well that was a blessing in disguise. This lady was so nice, so pleasant and she piled on the food too. A great tuna salad to start with lots of tuna in it, followed by a thick, home made vegetable soup. I had several bowls of this. Then three fine cut pork chops with chips. I'm not a great fan of pork chops but these were delicious. Finally a yogurt and a fresh peach, I decided I would pack these for tomorrow. 

As each day passes I am becoming more relaxed and my head is now clear of the clutter that blocks our minds from reaching inside ourselves. This enjoyment is of course tempered by the aches and pains which I think I am now going to have to accept as part of the experience.
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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow 

Puerte la Reina:

Images of Puerta la Reina on the internet

Wikipedia on Puerta la Reina - This is Spanish version, use the 'Translate' button for your language.

Estella:

Images of Estella on the internet

Wikipedia on Estella

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Topic: Aches, Pains, Blisters etc
I could have used a more extensive title on this topic like, 'Aches, Pains, Blisters, Tummy Bugs, Injuries, Old war wounds, Fatalities and much more' but I thought the one I used was even too long already. 

Perhaps there is an endless supply of information about what you can expect to endure while walking the Camino, especially for those who wish to complete the Camino Frances in one go. All I know is that I did not inform myself about the down side of walking great distances each day, day after day, and what that might do to my ageing body. Although the Camino seemed to treat all us pilgrims just about the same with young and old suffering the same ailments. In fact, I think many young people appeared to get more blisters as they set off with great intentions to complete the journey in record time only to find the Camino is a great leveller for all ages. 

There were many days when I asked myself 'what the hell are you doing out here' as I walked on blistered feet in the great heat of the day, exhausted and wishing to be anywhere else. These thought pass but they do come back from time to time. Thankfully there are far more great experiences to overshadow the bad stuff. 

time to dress my feet again

Blisters:
I have to confess that I believe I got away lightly in that the bigger blisters I got early on did clear up thanks to an abundant supply of Compede. They are expensive but I found them a great help and made it possible for me to walk on blistered feet over several days. Each morning you could see so many pilgrims attending to their feet before setting off. I often cam across people changing their dressing along the way. Sometimes I offered Compede but everyone had their own supply or their own remedy. 

Aches and Pains:
Many people reported suffering from aches, pains and limps associated with injuries they received many years ago. They all said the Camino will find your weak spot and aggravate it until it becomes painful. My hips were very painful for the first week but after that they were OK. Towards the end of the journey my knees started to pain me, particularly my left knee. Often the pain would get fairly bad and I would start to limp but after a very brief rest I was able to get back on my way again. I did fear that my knees might let me down and I had a couple of knee supports in my bag just in case but they were a last resort. I never had to use them.

Tummy Bugs:
Some I met had tummy bugs, others sore throat  and various other illnesses. Some were advised to a day or two to recover before walking again. I had a sore throat and headaches for a couple of days but it did not interfere with my progress. Towards the end of the journey I did have a nasty tummy bug and that did knock me back a lot. I will cover that later in the blog.

Injuries:
I saw so many people with bruises, cuts and stitches on their face, arms or legs. While most of the terrain is easy to walk, if we ignore the angle of ascent or descent for the moment, some parts are very rocky and you need to pick your steps to avoid spraining your ankle or a nasty fall. Clearly many people fell. You have to remember that once you start to fall the chances are you will not be able to save yourself as the weight of your backpack will pull you down. 

Fatalities:
Sadly people also die on the Camino. Statistically that should not be a surprise because so many people are doing this every year. However, While I walked the Camino I was informed, I have not tried to confirm this yet, that a Canadian man fell and died and a short while afterwards two German pilgrims were hit by a car and died. There are many places along the Camino where people have erected crosses, statues, stones etc to mark the spot where pilgrims died. 

None of the above should deter you from making the journey of a lifetime. Just be prepared and take care.

6. Estella to Los Arcos

Camino Frances - Day 6 - September 1st 2013: Estella to Los Arcos

Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes

Click here for Google Map and my starting point today

Disturbed sleep again last night. I woke at 2:30am to what sounded like a mosquito hovering (if that's what they do) around the room. It kept flying very close to me so I decided I would have to get out of bed, put on the lights and find the little bastard before he devoured me. I react very badly to insect bites, usually swelling up all around the bite. Couldn't find him so I had no choice but to go back to bed and try to ignore him, her, it. I finally got up at 6:30am and to my surprise I felt very refreshed as if I had slept all night, maybe the mosquito was just a bad dream?

I met Anne from Seattle over breakfast, just the two of us in the whole place. She hopes to complete her  journey in 33 days and is on track to do just that.

I'm thinking of an old song
 ' The Pub's got no beer' 

I left at about 8:45am heading out over the hills behind the Albergue to link up with the Camino trail at the top of the town. There I met Alexandro, Stefanie and Daniel. I walked with Alexandro as far as the wine fountain which. unfortunately or maybe fortunately, was turned off. There we met with Stefanie and Daniel again and we all took some photos of the 'dry well'. I walked with Stefanie for a while, she hopes to keep going for another nine days but feeling very tired today. Her bag and Danial's bag are much heavier than my own so I can only imagine how this would be impacting on her well being. They have already left some gear behind to lighten the load but still have too much gear. (See Topic on Equipment) 

I stopped to take some photos of the mountains in the distance, Saoirse and Rachel came by and after I took a photo of them, with their own camera, they moved on. 

Shortly after I started to walk again, on my own now, my mind drifted to distant memories, as was happening with greater frequency over the past couple of days. I have no doubt that I was reaching into my past because I had cleared my mind, found great

Saoirse and Rachel

tranquillity in this beautiful place with no distractions we associate with modern life. Anyway, on this occasion I suddenly had a vivid memory of my wife when we were both just teenagers, not married yet. She slipped me a note with the words 'I Love You' written on it. While I had no doubt we were already madly n love with each other this was the first time it was stated. Even now, walking along a pathway in Northern Spain more than four decades later I had that same all consuming elation I felt way back then. We were so young and yet we knew we would always be together. I cannot imagine life without her. This was one of the occasions when my elation was followed by loneliness because I now missed Brenda very much. I was consoled by the thought that we would be back together on the morning of October 11th. 

My mind then drifted to my dream from last night. I have always had vivid dreams and over the years loved sharing them with Brenda. Today I had nobody to share this with and even if I had I probably would have kept it to myself. I will share a couple of my dreams under one of the Topics entitled Dreams. 

I'm really enjoying today, taking regular breaks, having these brief chats with new friends and all those beautiful memories coming back to me that I had sadly forgotten. 

I came across a lovely shaded area beside a water font. The timing was perfect, I needed to top up my water and take a short break. See photo on the left. A french couple I have come across every day had also stopped at this spot. They were maybe five or six years older than me, he was stretched out, asleep on the grass, she was sitting beside him finishing her lunch. They had no English just as I had no French yet we could communicate as many pilgrims do with greetings, smiles, hand signals and the parting 'Buen Camino'. 

Stefanie and Daniel came by, we finally exchanged contact details and I took this photo of them together. 


As I took t the road again a guy came up behind me at speed, asked if I was heading for Los Arcos and if I would like to keep him company for the rest of the way. I picked up my speed to match his, but I think he also dropped his pace to make allowances for me. We covered so many topics while comparing life in Slovakia with life in Ireland and the parallels were across every aspect of life. Valentino hails from Slovakia and sells heavy duty machinery. He was planning a trip to Ireland for training on machines to crush rocks. They will be used in quarries and to crush old material from buildings for recycling. The equipment is manufactured my McCloskeys in Ireland.  We covered many topics while walking including, population, employment, economy, politics, politicians, ethnic minorities and society. This conversation with Valentino and those I have had with others from across the world reinforce my very poor opinion of politicians. They are a breed apart with self interest above everything else and we all continue to let this form of 'democracy' prevail. Will we ever really have a voice? I digress again, this topic is for another time I think. 

I checked into Albergue la Fuente de Austria, showered, washed some clothes and got ready to go to dinner. Stefanie and Daniel asked me to join their group for dinner. I sat with 8 Germans for dinner in an open area between the restaurants and the church. The group were very considerate speaking mostly in English for my benefit and if Stefanie though I was interested in any of the bits in German she kindly translated for me. I exchanged contact detain with Karin who also likes to take photos. Karin I would meet over and over again during my Camino experience. I had a great evening in their company before parting to take some photos and then head back to the Albergue. I met Anne from Seattle who had a bad day and was hoping things would be better tomorrow. My clothes were not dry so I would have to improvise on the sock front in the morning. 

Apart from a very helpful and attractive receptionist, this Albergue has some way to go to come anyway close to the standards set by the others I have stayed in to date. 
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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow 

Estella:

Images of Estella on the internet

Wikipedia on Estella

Los Arcos:
Images of Los Arcos on the Internet
Wikipedia on Los Arcos - very little info, use external links and 'translate button if necessary.
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Topic: Walking Alone Vs with Others
I've already said that I believe there is no single right way to travel the Camino. In this section I want to look at the advantages and disadvantages of either walking alone or walking with others. 

As you must know by now I chose to walk the 800Kms alone for reasons I will outline below. Of course, from time to time individuals would join me on the walk or while I was taking a break. I always enjoyed the company, it was a great opportunity to get to know a little bit about my fellow pilgrims, share experiences or compare the economic, political and social issues facing our respective countries. 

This is not an exhaustive analysis of the different options, just a few observations from my own experience. Please feel free to comment and let me know about your walking preference and experiences to add other perspectives on the topic as mine is very limited

Walking Alone:

Some Advantages:
I chose to walk alone because I felt it gave me the best opportunity to be completely chilled out. In doing so I though I would be able to strip away all the unnecessary stuff we all carry around in our head. You know, the day to day nonsense that gets in the way of the real issues we need to think about or to attend to. 

Within a few days of walking I found myself thinking about my wife as she was 40 years ago, about my mother, (who died five years ago) and how she looked when I was a young boy. Every day I spent time thinking about my brother. Many other memories came to me and I am convinced that this was only possible because I had so much time on my own to relax in the beautiful countryside. So often I was not even aware of walking I was so relaxed and I can only compare it with a form of meditation. I don't believe I could have achieved this state of relaxation if I were walking in the company of others.

My walking pace varied so much over the entire journey. There were days I was passing everyone out as I pumped my legs and arms, giving my heart and lungs a great workout. There were days I walked like I was about to just fall over for lack of momentum. The great advantage of walking alone is that you can set your own pace to suit you mood or physical capabilities on the day. Injuries, as they occurred, also impacted on my pace but being alone I could work within my own pain threshold. Walking with others you may end up walking quicker or slower, on a given day, than the rate at which you would like to be performing. 

Stopping and starting whenever you feel like it is also something you like to feel you have some control over. I like to take photographs, so stopping often along the way to take a quick snapshot could irritate a companion who may not have the same appreciation for photography. Taking a break for water, food, admiring the scenery or just to give the body a break should be something you feel able to do without impacting or the enjoyment of your companion or companions. 

I think you meet more people when you walk alone. People will join you on the road or at 'pit stops' along the way, sometimes other lone walkers and other time couples or groups. 

Some Disadvantages:
There were times, not often, when I did feel lonely. It usually happened when I saw a couple together and this reminded me of my wife and at that moment I really missed her and would love to have had her beside me. When I saw children playing or out in the evening dining with their parents and grandparents I missed family. These were only fleeting moments of sadness, they would pass quickly as I was distracted by something else.

I got lost up a mountain early one dark misty morning. This is a risk you run when you head out on your own before sunrise with a torch that does not function well due to low battery life and with my mind not on the job of observing the camino markings.  

Being alone could present you with some difficulties if you sustained an injury on a quiet stretch but thankfully it was not an issue for me. 

At no time along the way did I ever feel concerned about personal safety but you cannot rule out the risks when walking alone. 

Walking with Others:
There are many advantages to walking with others whether you set out with a group or joined a group along the way.

Some Advantages:
Safety in numbers is clearly a great advantage. Groups I observed in the early hours on the morning were cross checking all the markings to ensure they chose the correct path, I often took advantage of the group decisions whenever I stumbled upon them and then set off on my own assured there were at least some others on the same path. The group can care for an injured individual and also address any concerns about personal safety.

Groups can have great craic and build bonds that may last for the duration of the walk or indeed for life. They can support and encourage each other a achieve more collectively that an individual who may feel down. I observed group singing as they marched along the road, sharing food and drink and generally having a wonderful, shared experience.

Speaking to many who were part of either couples or groups they said they would, from time to time set themselves apart to have some time with their own thoughts. They felt they were getting the best of both worlds. I did notice couple who walked together occasionally drifting apart only to unite after a short break. 

Disadvantage:
The only disadvantages, from my perspective, to walking with others all the time is the lack of time to be on my own, not being able to set your own pace, stop and start as often as you want and for as long as you want, settling for the collective decision about destination for the end of day. These are not major issues but could, over time become challenging. 

Group dynamics also change over time. Little idiosyncrasies of an individual can appear bigger over time. Personalities may clash, people who normally get on over short periods of time can find  that they don't get on over protracted periods. Groups forms on the Camino begin to find out more about each other, leading to great friendships or dividing the group. These are issues you do not want on the Camino.
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More to follow...........................