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| Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes |
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| Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes |
Click here for Google Map and my starting point today
I didn't sleep well last night. This was my first night sleeping in a room with other pilgrims so maybe this had something to do with me not drifting off to sleep. I also kept feeling leg cramps starting up so I was constantly moving my legs to prevent the cramps developing into a full lock down and me screaming in pain. Us men are so bad with pain. Valentino was in the bed next to me and beyond him was Karin, from Germany who I met so many times along the way.
I got up at 5:45am and after the morning rituals went downstairs for breakfast. I met a young couple who live in Sydney, she is from Mulingar originally and he is Australian. I set off from Zubiri at about 7:30am. and I considered walking all the way to Pamplona without stopping. About halfway along this stage I came across a small place serving pizzas cooked fresh or reheated in a stone oven. It was like an oasis in the desert.
I had a large slice of pizza and a fresh orange juice, updated my notes and prepared for the final push to complete this stage. I arrived in Pamplona at about 1pm, checked into Albergue Ibarrola, washed my clothes and lay down for an hour before setting off to explore the city.
I walked all around the centre of the city before making a tour of the fabulous Cathedral. Later I sat outside the famous Cafe Iruna and often associated with Hemmingway. I had a couple of beers and watched the world go by.A band started to play in a bandstand and everyone just started to dance together. Total strangers, all joining in the spirit of the occasion. It must have been a native dance because everyone knew the steps. Once the music stopped everyone went about their business, Amazing.
I went inside the Cafe Iruna and had dinner before setting off for the Albergue before lock out.
The city had come alive with young people sitting down all over the streets, eating, drinking and just having a great time, Recession, what recession.
Back in the Albergue I took a scissors to the end of my sleeping bag liner because I always sleep with my feet sticking out from under the covers.
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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow
Zubiri:
Pamplona:
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Topic: Why walk the Camino
Why do people walk the Camino and if they were to do it all over again, now knowing what they know, would their motivation be any different?
When I first decided to undertake this walk it was just another item on my bucket list. Over time, as I have already written about, my motivation changed. This was partly down to what I read about the challenge but also by events in my life. Probably the most significant being the death of my brother Tom, at the age of just 64, on April 6th 2013. Tom and I had often spoke about the Camino and I know he would love to have been able to make the trip but due to his poor health it was not possible. He was a very religious man and I know his pilgrimage would have differed somewhat to my own. While I am not religious I am spiritual and after Tom died I decided that I would take lock of Tom's hair with me so that he could, in spirit at least, complete the walk. More about that later... I also wanted some time alone, some peace and quiet to reflect of just about anything that came into my head. To achieve these objectives I declared I would walk alone. I did not shun company but dipped in and out briefly with other individuals before breaking away again to be with my own thoughts.
Another idea I had before setting off was that I would chat with people, listen to their stories and document it here on the blog. I changed my mind on this almost as soon as I started walking. Most people were very open and only too willing to share their stories. Many were inspirational, some were heart breaking, in fact, there were as many reasons as there were pilgrims. I could not tell their stories, they were too personal and it was their story to tell should they ever wish to go public on that.
So, I am happy to share my motivation and to list why some others travel this path without attaching the story to any individuals.
To Give Thanks:
Some were walking to give thanks for their life, for recovering from a serious illness themselves or on behalf of others in recovery
For the dead:
Many walked the Camino to remember a family member or friend who died. They may have died in the distant past or very recently. It was heart breaking to hear some stories, children who died, siblings, parents and partners. Some died of natural causes while others died in tragic circumstances
To Forget:
I met some who wanted to put a period of their life behind them and start anew. People who were separated from spouse or family members. Others recovering from depression who wanted to push themselves, to challenge themselves and confront their fears.
To Understand:
Some were trying to understand some part of their life which has been causing them grief and worry and they are seeking solutions a remedy to let them move on or get on with others.
To Explore:
Most of the young people I met were doing the Camino because it was there or they were about to start their working life after completing college and they felt this may be the last opportunity they will have for many years to complete the journey in one go.
To meet like minded people:
There is a social aspect to the Camino too and many people who come back time after time to either walk a part of the way, repeat the whole route over and over or try different routes will tell you that they love meeting people from every walk of life and spending some time in their company.
Religious:
It was no surprise to find a religious aspect associated with the motivation of pilgrims. What was surprising though was how people did not openly display this side of their pilgrimage. People were quietly getting on with it without any overt display of piety. Not that such displays would have bothered me as I expected to see it all along the way. As I spoke with some people the subject might arise and it was lovely to hear how strong their faith was and how much they enjoyed that aspect of their personal experience. Yes, even me, a stone cold atheist , can appreciate and tolerate the belief system of others : ).
Actually, I must tell you a story while we are on this subject and you can make up your own mind about what actually happened. It was September 4th. and I had just taken a short break in Navarette. I was only back on my way when I came across a church and I decided to stop and take a few photos.
I took off my backpack and placed it against a tree across the pathway and opposite the entrance to the church, The base of the tree had a decorative iron grid all the way around it so I inserted my walking poles in the holes of this decorative grid so they would stand up in front of my backpack and ensure I would not walk off without them.
With the photos taken I set off again. About 50Mts up the road I noticed one of my poles was making a bit of a racket . I checked it and noticed that the rubber cover was missing, I guessed it must have come off as I removed the pole from the grid. I went back, breaking one of my little rules that I would never go back, always forward. I could see the rubber cover about 25cm (10ins for my generation) below the grid surface. I went down on my knees to see if |I could get my hand through the grid to retrieve the rubber and get back on my way. I reached it and drew it back up. So, there I was on my knees outside a church when I noticed, in the corner of my eye, a couple probably of my generation, coming in my direction and joining their hands as if in prayer. Now at my age getting up from a kneeling position is not done in one swift action, instead, it is a slow process. It occurred to me that they assumed I was in prayer and were going to join me. I may have been wrong but I did decide that if they got to me and started to pray ahead of me getting to my feet that I would stay put and join in the ritual rather than embarrass them in their very well meaning gesture. As I got to my feet and they figured out what was going on they made a gentle change to their trajectory and were on their way. I was touched by what I thought had just happened but maybe they were just curious about this old guy rummaging around the base of a tree. They probably have a very different entry in their blog recalling this nutter and what they thought I was up to? What do you think? I like my version : )
