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| Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes |
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| Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes |
Click here for Google Map and my starting point today
We left the Albergue at about 6:30am. and I went ahead on my own as usual. I love the off road walking, not just because it brings the soltude I yearn for on this journey, or the fact that it is less painful underfoot than the tarmac but because it allows me to take in the countryside without concerns about traffic. The short stretch of off road between Tricastela and San Xil may indeed be beautiful but walking through the wooded area in the rain and pitch dark while struggling with the ascent can be a real challenge. I know many chose to stick to the road and in hindsight I think they made the right choice.
My FEAR of dogs:
At one stage I was passing through what I can only assume was a farmyard, with outhouses on either side, when my head lamp picked up something lying in the middle of this narrow pathway. It was a large german shepard, of the canine variety.
I have been very nervous around dogs since an encounter with one nearly 43 years ago. I was taking a shortcut, across Johnstown park, on my way to Brenda's house. We had been going out together for about a year at this time. Anyway, the park, with a few football pitches, tennis courts and many walkways is usually busy with people playing games or walking the dog. I spotted a guy walking his very large german shepard and immediately I felt uneasy. The dog was maybe 40mtrs away from me but I am convinced he sensed my fear. He fixed his eyes on me, gave me a good look at his very big teeth and started to growl. I think he was waiting to see my reaction and I did not disappoint him. I picked up my speed to see if he was really interested in me and he took this as an invitation to give chase with nothing but menace on his mind. His owner did not seem too concerned because I have no recollection of him screaming at his mutt to come back. I ran towards the perimeter fence. I was a very fit young man and well capable of running at speed yet this brute was gaining on me and almost withing snapping distance. I reached the fence, almost two metres high, and found myself on the other side of it without any recollection of touching it as I took to the air. I may just have set a new, unofficial, Irish high jump record. Thankfully the beast decided he had made his point and maintained his dominance in 'his' territory. He probably urinated at the fence to mark the boundary.
Now, back on the Camino, and seeing this Spanish relation to my 'Hound of Johnstown' I felt all the old fears coming back. I quickly weighed up the situation, it's dark, he's guarding his master's property, he's big and ugly, he's asleep and will not be pleased about me disturbing his dog dreams. I could not go back because that's against my number one Camino commandment. I came within inches (Cms) of the dog with my walking poles ready should he pounce. To be honest I was thinking he would probably have devoured the poles before moving on to the main course. Such a waste of energy and perspiration , he never even moved, never even took a look at this old fool who took another five minutes to regain composure and forget about that dog.
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| Soft drinks machine in the middle of the woods : ) |
I was very low on cash and planned to find an ATM in Sarria. When I got there I went into the Tourist Office (a) to get my Camino Passport stamped and (b) to seek clarification about stamps required from here to Santiago. Up to this point I usually got just one stamp per day. I was advised that for the rest of my journey I would have to get two stamps each day on my Camino Passport. I then made my way to the Monastery, Mosteiro da Madalena, for another stamp. This is the point where many pilgrims get their credential if they are undertaking the Sarria to Santiago walk and entitles them to a Compostela. I left Sarria without getting cash as planned, senior moments?. Maybe in the next town. 
I stopped in Ferrerios, too small to have ATM. I did have enough cash to purchase my lunch which I took outside. I took off my boots and socks. The socks were placed on a warm stone wall to dry out while I attended to my feet. I decided I would walk all the way to Portomarín making this one of the longest hikes to date at about 44Klms. I sent a text to Ger as I had expected them to have caught up with me by now. No response but within minutes I spot Bob coming out through the entrance to the local Albergue. I thought Ger must have mentioned my text and he came down to invite me to join them. Not so, Bob had walked alone today and arrived in Ferrerios well ahead of me. I had not seen him pass me becausehe had taken the roadway on one occasion while I had gone through the woods. He had not heard anything from the guys either. Bob said the Albergue was fabulous and still had spaces. I told him I had made up my mind to keep walking and felt up to it. We talked some more, he went for something to eat as I set off again. I later learned that the guys had taken a wrong turn and lost much time but ended their day in the same Albergue as Bob. |
| Portomarín |
I took a stroll around this lively town. I observed some local old men, in a group, seated on a few benches watching everyone coming and going. They were all chatting but never looking at each other as their eyes stayed on the square and everything that was taking place there. They looked so at ease in there I had no doubt this was a daily ritual for this group of men with time to stop and smell the roses. I love this stage of my life and they too were making the most of it.
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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow
Images of Triacastela on the internet
Wikipedia on Triacastela
Sarria:
Images of Sarria on the internet
Wikipedia on Sarria
Portomarín:
Images of Portomarín on the internet
Wikipedia on Portomarín
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