Hi,
I have just completed transferring my notes into my blog. So you can now read about 'My Camino Experience' by scrolling down through the 30+ days of notes and photos. I have also placed most of my photographs on my Flickr page, you can use the link below to have a look at them.
I may revisit the blog and modify my entries once I get a chance to proof read it and cross check it again against my notebook. I still have to add a few more topics to some of the pages.
NOTE: This is not a guide to the Camino. It's just my story, warts and all. I do occasionally have a little rant and sometimes relate events with my own twist which should not be taken too seriously. This should not take away from my feeling that walking the Camino can be a life changing experience testing you both physically and mentally. If you are ever lucky enough to walk the Camino please keep an open mind and then let your own story unfold.
I've loaded my photos on Flickr. Click here to see the photos.
Copyright of Contour Maps
The Copyrighted Contour Maps from John Brierley's Camino de Santiago guidebook have been made available to me with kind permission of the owner. They may not be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the owner (John Brierley)
NOTE: I would like to thank John for the above and for taking the time out to respond, personally, to my emails. I am grateful too for his kind words and support and I can only hope that the account of my Camino experience meet his expectations.
NOTE: I would like to thank John for the above and for taking the time out to respond, personally, to my emails. I am grateful too for his kind words and support and I can only hope that the account of my Camino experience meet his expectations.
My Camino Experience
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| Santiago de Compostela’s cathedral |
The Story:
I'm told that a story must have a beginning, a middle and an end. If that's the case then I suppose the beginning of my story will look at why I thought walking the Camino was a good idea. I can outline how this came about, my reasons, my expectations and how over time things changed. Some would probably say the Camino took over.
The middle part of my story will look at my experiences on the Camino, the pain, the joy, the solitude, companionship and the opportunity to reflect on life while almost in a meditative state as I made my way across northern Spain. This rare opportunity allowed me to look into my past and reveal long lost images, experiences and shielded emotions. This was a real surprise to me and not at all what I had expected.
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| “All truly great thoughts are conceived while walking.” - Friedrich Nietzsche |
I can save you time reading my ranting in these pages by advising you now that this record is not a guide to the Camino. There are so many good publications out there, including an abundance of information on the Internet, to answer any questions you may have about walking, cycling, riding or ever driving the Camino if that's the only way you can make the journey. This blog is about my experience and as anyone who has ever undertaken this journey can tell you it is a unique story for each of us. That said, I am sure many people will be able to relate to the events in my journey and maybe it will help some, who are about to embark on their first Camino, prepare for their journey.
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| I'm reminded of the links with my past, those I revisited on the Camio |
The end of my story will, I hope, offer me an opportunity to reflect on the experience but let's see how we get on with the beginning and middle first, OK?
In The Beginning.....:
The seeds being planted:
I'm not absolutely sure when I first decided to walk the Camino but I know it was within the last 12 months. I retired in January 2012, a month ahead of my 60th birthday, and I was determined to make the most of this precious time in life. I had prepared a 'bucket list' to keep me busy, challenging me both physically and mentally, for as long as my body and mind remained functional. Close to the top of my list was the Kilimanjaro challenge. So, in October 2012, after returning home from a US Road Trip, I signed up with a group to commence training for this climb to the top of Africa. We had planned to be halfway up on New Year's eve and that we would reach the summit around January 3rd. or 4th 2013. The group included many keen and experienced walkers some who had walked different parts of the Camino Frances and at least two who had in fact walked the entire 800Kms in one go. Their stories about the Camino stirred up a curiosity in me and I was determined to learn more.
( Sadly our Kilimanjaro adventure ended in tragedy but that's another story.)
Nurturing the seeds:
I went home, Googled the Camino and started to learn about this ancient pilgrimage. I researched the origin of the Camino, the various routes and how it has evolved over the centuries. how other people set about preparing for this journey, a spiritual journey for many. I was hooked and determined to undertake this challenge as soon as practically possible. I placed it centre stage on my bucket list and preparations began.
In these early days I had no clear motivation for walking the Camino other than the fact that it sounded challenging and an opportunity to spend some time with myself. Like most people working their way through life, with all the demands of the modern world, we have little time to ourselves. I have been most fortunate over the years, or maybe I'm just easily satisfied, either way I have enjoyed full employment and a wonderful family throughout my lifetime. While I would not change anything I had little time for myself due to all these commitments. Retirement offered me a new lease of life, a new sense of freedom and an opportunity to pursue personal goals while still having lots of time for family.
I told everyone about this latest adventure, to reinforce the idea in my mind and keep me on track. To my surprise many people actually knew a lot about the Camino and some had already walked part of the Camino Frances and had every intention of going back to complete the journey. I spoke with my brother Tom about my plans and each time we met after that he asked me when I was going, what I hoped to achieve and he spoke at length about the history and religious significance of the pilgrimage. I knew he would love to have been able to make this journey with me but due to his poor health this was not an option. A deeply religious man, he would have had a different perspective on the journey. Sadly Tom died on the 6th April 2013 at the young age of 64.
I could feel my motivation for doing the Camino evolving from just another challenge into a journey with much deeper meaning. The change was gradual and I know I was even denying this change because I did not want to over complicate this time with myself, if that makes any sense to you? I feared this would place other demands on my solitude and distract me from the freedom I sought.
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| “Life isn't about finding yourself. Life is about creating yourself.” - George Bernard Shaw |
The death of a friend beside me on Kilimanjaro, my own brush with death and now the loss of my dear brother were issues I needed time with on the Camino. I thought I had covered them up and moved on, and to a large extent I had but my brother's death was too significant to consign to the past, to just another of life's tragedies. After Tom's died I kept a lock of his hair in my backpack so he travelled with me each time I went out for hikes on the mountains. I made a promise to walk the Camino alone with Tom in my heart and mind. I would take him to the end of the earth, to Finisterre. The lighthouse at Finisterre is said to be the westernmost point of the Iberian Peninsula, thus the name which means 'end of the earth' (apparently Cabo da Roca, in Portugal is about 16.5 km further west but that's not important in the context of my story) I was determined that nothing would deter me from making good on this promise to myself and to the memory of Tom.
I had great intentions to learn Spanish, to get fit, to abandon all technology, to do the Camino the hard way with fully loaded backpack and stay in albergues each night. You may judge later how successful I was with some of these good intentions.
- I did learn a few basic phrases of Spanish and I hoped I would pick up some more along the way.
- I did leave my iPad and MP3 player behind, but took my phone after some gentle persuasion from close family members. 'Only to be used in emergencies' I told them.
- I also took a camera but that was always my intention, I wanted a pictorial record of this journey to support my account in this blog. I had to compromise here because my normal camera with various lenses would be too heavy and awkward to take on this journey. Instead I purchased a Fuji x100s for this trip. The picture quality is good and it it's much lighter than my other camera.
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| 'A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.' - Lao-tzu |
I spoke with my Spanish friend Carma, she was part of the Kilimanjaro group, about the best time to walk across northern Spain. She recommended end of August and into September but cautioned that Galicia can be wet. She also kindly offered to take a call should I find myself in any difficulty and needed a translator : ).
My intention was to walk slowly, enjoy the walk, the solitude, take photographs and come back whenever I felt ready. I thought maybe two months away would be enough to do everything that needed doing, whatever that was. So I booked my flight out with no return ticket. I thought I would walk to Santiago via the Camino Frances and then on to Finisterre. I knew I would miss my wife because we are so close and have been very happily married for 41 years. In fact our 41st anniversary would occur while I was walking the Camino and while she holidayed in San Francisco with one sister who is based there and another sister who would travel from Sydney to form the Beatty Trinity.
I knew I was not prepared, based on all the recommendations and suggestions on the Internet, but I also knew that I was not travelling to a third world country. I could get anything I needed along the way should an urgent need arise, otherwise I would keep it simple and enjoy the journey.
I set off from home on August 26th 2013. I suddenly experienced extremes of emotions as I felt sad to be parting with Brenda at the airport knowing I would not see her again for 7 or 8 weeks while at the same time the joy and excitement of starting this amazing journey became a reality.
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| “I live in that solitude which is painful in youth, but delicious in the years of maturity.” - Albert Einstein |
Getting to St Jean-Pied-de-Port
To St Jean-Pied-de-Port where the real journey begins. Click here to see map
I know that, in many ways, the journey began that day, several months back, when I made the decision to walk the Camino but now that I was actually heading for St Jean-Pied-de-Port I felt a new sense of excitement and anticipation about the unknown that would inevitably arise along the way.
There's not a lot to report about this phase of the journey. The flight left on time, arrive on time. The bus to Bayonne arrived almost immediately I exited the airport and for the first time I now noticed I was not alone on my quest. The bus was full with backpackers including several from Ireland. I hoped the heavy rainfall was not a bad omen for the journey. The rain cleared before we reached the train station. What I saw of Biarritz was truly beautiful but maybe the bus takes the scenic route.
Broken recall button:
Arriving at the train station I purchased my ticket to St. Jean (there are several so you need to be specific) The train was not due for a couple of hours so I went to a small pub in the station and sat over a few coffees to kill the time. I also began to record the first entries in my diary. I should mention at this time that my recall button is broken. That's the bit in your head that helps you remember your past when someone says ' do you remember when we ....' or something along those lines. I rely on photographs and notes to help me recall everything. Once I have those triggers the rest falls into place. So, my diary and my camera are constant companions while travelling. Sometimes, on short trips or a day out the camera will suffice. For a long trip I cannot rely on photos and memory, I need to have notes too. My recall button is not completely broken, just malfunctioning.
The rains came again as the train made slow progress towards St Jean. Most people travelling on the train were either in pairs or groups. I did not notice any other lone travellers but it could be that they only met their travelling companion since arriving in France. Most were walkers but there were some who brought their bikes along for the journey. There were people from Ireland, France, Spain, Germany, the Netherlands, Italy, and others I could not be sure about.
A short ten minute walk from the train station took me into the centre of St Jean where I easily located my hotel for the night. The last booking I planned for the next 800 kms. From now on it would be a case of arriving into a town and taking whatever was available. I would use John Brierley's Camino guide to try and narrow down the options.
After checking in I took a stroll around the town, took some photos and purchased a poncho. I went back to my room to shower before setting off again for something to eat. I had a beer and dinner and then decided I needed to sort out my backpack for the morning.
Well, I could not get everything into my backpack so I attached a waterproof bag to the outside of my pack. This would contain everything I should need for the day while the items in my backpack should remain untouched until I get to the Albergue. That was the plan anyway.
I was not sure that I would be able to complete the first day, a 27 km hike across the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles, without an overnight along the way. I knew there was an Albergue after about 10 km so I decided I would see how I felt at that stage and stop over if I thought I would not be able for the remaining 17 km before nightfall. I had not purchased any food or water for the journey, I really was being very relaxed about this trip or is that naive?.
There's not a lot to report about this phase of the journey. The flight left on time, arrive on time. The bus to Bayonne arrived almost immediately I exited the airport and for the first time I now noticed I was not alone on my quest. The bus was full with backpackers including several from Ireland. I hoped the heavy rainfall was not a bad omen for the journey. The rain cleared before we reached the train station. What I saw of Biarritz was truly beautiful but maybe the bus takes the scenic route.
Broken recall button:
Arriving at the train station I purchased my ticket to St. Jean (there are several so you need to be specific) The train was not due for a couple of hours so I went to a small pub in the station and sat over a few coffees to kill the time. I also began to record the first entries in my diary. I should mention at this time that my recall button is broken. That's the bit in your head that helps you remember your past when someone says ' do you remember when we ....' or something along those lines. I rely on photographs and notes to help me recall everything. Once I have those triggers the rest falls into place. So, my diary and my camera are constant companions while travelling. Sometimes, on short trips or a day out the camera will suffice. For a long trip I cannot rely on photos and memory, I need to have notes too. My recall button is not completely broken, just malfunctioning.
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| A view of St Jean-Pied-de-Port from the Citadel above the town |
The rains came again as the train made slow progress towards St Jean. Most people travelling on the train were either in pairs or groups. I did not notice any other lone travellers but it could be that they only met their travelling companion since arriving in France. Most were walkers but there were some who brought their bikes along for the journey. There were people from Ireland, France, Spain, Germany, the Netherlands, Italy, and others I could not be sure about.
A short ten minute walk from the train station took me into the centre of St Jean where I easily located my hotel for the night. The last booking I planned for the next 800 kms. From now on it would be a case of arriving into a town and taking whatever was available. I would use John Brierley's Camino guide to try and narrow down the options.
After checking in I took a stroll around the town, took some photos and purchased a poncho. I went back to my room to shower before setting off again for something to eat. I had a beer and dinner and then decided I needed to sort out my backpack for the morning.
Well, I could not get everything into my backpack so I attached a waterproof bag to the outside of my pack. This would contain everything I should need for the day while the items in my backpack should remain untouched until I get to the Albergue. That was the plan anyway.
I was not sure that I would be able to complete the first day, a 27 km hike across the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles, without an overnight along the way. I knew there was an Albergue after about 10 km so I decided I would see how I felt at that stage and stop over if I thought I would not be able for the remaining 17 km before nightfall. I had not purchased any food or water for the journey, I really was being very relaxed about this trip or is that naive?.
The Middle
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| “There comes . . . a longing never to travel again except on foot.” - Wendell Berry |
I have given much thought to how I should record this, the 'Middle', part of my story. As I already mentioned this is not a step by step guide to the Camino because it simply represents the experiences of a single individual on his first Camino. That's insufficient experience to advise anyone else on what to do or what not to do, before, during or after they undertake their own journey. That's my disclaimer : )
The real challenge for me has been deciding how to record this very personal journey in a way that gives the reader some sense of what I experienced but also captures the memories in a way that will assist me over time to recall this wonderful event in my life. I decided to open a new post for each day I was walking. The first entry in each post is a contour map for the stage walked, I then insert a link to Google Maps showing the starting point for that day, followed by a very brief account of that stage.
I also include a few links in each post. These links will take you to images posted on the internet (NOT MINE) of some of the towns on that specific section of the route. I have inserted a Wikipedia link for the same towns. The images selected are very random and often have nothing to do with the search criteria but that's the Internet for you. Sometimes Wikipedia has very little information on the smaller towns or the link may be to the Spanish version of Wikipedia. You can use the 'Translate' button to get the English translation.
Oh, each section does include many of my own photographs and a link to my Flickr page where most of my Camino photos are stored.
Finally a section on a specific topic. Let me explain the approach to the 'topics' section within the post. As I walked along the way, or in the evenings while chilling out, different experiences would arise and many would reoccur several times along the way. Rather than address each topic in bits and pieces as they occurred I have chosen to deal with the topic in it's entirety under one section. I'm not sure I have explained this very well but read on to see how this works out.
The Middle section will include many topics e.g.
- Who walks the Camino,
- Aches, pains and blisters,
- Dreams,
- Albergues
- Snoring and more.
- Fisterra experience
- Walking alone or in the company of others,
- Desensitise, Resensitise
- Equipment and squeaky shoulder.
and Many other subjects.
A list of topics can be found under the 'Labels' section of this blog. Once a topic has been added to a post it will automatically get added to the labels drop down list.
1: St Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles
Camino Frances - Day 1 - August 27th 2013: St Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles
Click here for Google Map and my starting point today
Despite waking early after a very poor night's sleep I could hear many people outside, already on their way. I took my time getting ready because I knew I would have to wait for the shops to open so I could at least have some water for the journey ahead. I set off at about 9am immediately after purchasing a couple of litres of water. My backpack was stuffed to capacity, I had an extra bag strapped to that and now I had to use all the pockets in my trousers to carry Notebook, Guide Book, Water etc. My camera was strapped to my chest for easy access and to stop it bouncing around. The weight of everything in my trouser pockets was pulling them down so I had to tighten the belt almost to the point of strangulation. Five minutes into the walk I knew I would have to revisit the packing arrangements.
I set off at a reasonable pace full of enthusiasm and energy. Well, this first stage is truly a baptism of fire as you are immediately faced with a steep incline. This should not have been a surprise because over the course of today's stage you start out at 170mtrs, rising to 1,450Mtrs and finally descending to Roncesvalles at 1000Mtrs. I passed many people who were taking it really easy at first and I decided I too should slow down If I was going to make it all the way today.
I passed a middle aged women from the US who was struggling. She had a massive backpack and wore very heavy clothing. I spoke with her for a few minutes and she assured me she was fine because she had booked her place in Alberge Orisson, about 10Kms into this stage. I thought that perhaps I too should have booked ahead but that's not how I wanted to make this journey.
I sat on a rock at the side of the trail to take a short break, write some notes and have a drink of water. A Canadian family, Mum, Dad and two daughters came by. The father had arrived first and we had spoken about our intentions and he planned to walk with his family all the way to Santiago. When they joined us he said to his wife and girls, 'Hey look, this guy sitting on the rock taking notes is Irish, just like in the movie, how cool is that' ............
I reached Alberge Orisson at about 11am. It was too early to stop walking for the day but it had been a difficult start to my journey and I was already questioning why I did not do a bit of serious training for this trek. However, I was still hoping that my fitness would improve over the coming days
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| Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes |
Click here for Google Map and my starting point today
Despite waking early after a very poor night's sleep I could hear many people outside, already on their way. I took my time getting ready because I knew I would have to wait for the shops to open so I could at least have some water for the journey ahead. I set off at about 9am immediately after purchasing a couple of litres of water. My backpack was stuffed to capacity, I had an extra bag strapped to that and now I had to use all the pockets in my trousers to carry Notebook, Guide Book, Water etc. My camera was strapped to my chest for easy access and to stop it bouncing around. The weight of everything in my trouser pockets was pulling them down so I had to tighten the belt almost to the point of strangulation. Five minutes into the walk I knew I would have to revisit the packing arrangements.
I set off at a reasonable pace full of enthusiasm and energy. Well, this first stage is truly a baptism of fire as you are immediately faced with a steep incline. This should not have been a surprise because over the course of today's stage you start out at 170mtrs, rising to 1,450Mtrs and finally descending to Roncesvalles at 1000Mtrs. I passed many people who were taking it really easy at first and I decided I too should slow down If I was going to make it all the way today.
I passed a middle aged women from the US who was struggling. She had a massive backpack and wore very heavy clothing. I spoke with her for a few minutes and she assured me she was fine because she had booked her place in Alberge Orisson, about 10Kms into this stage. I thought that perhaps I too should have booked ahead but that's not how I wanted to make this journey.
I sat on a rock at the side of the trail to take a short break, write some notes and have a drink of water. A Canadian family, Mum, Dad and two daughters came by. The father had arrived first and we had spoken about our intentions and he planned to walk with his family all the way to Santiago. When they joined us he said to his wife and girls, 'Hey look, this guy sitting on the rock taking notes is Irish, just like in the movie, how cool is that' ............
I reached Alberge Orisson at about 11am. It was too early to stop walking for the day but it had been a difficult start to my journey and I was already questioning why I did not do a bit of serious training for this trek. However, I was still hoping that my fitness would improve over the coming days
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| Outside Alberge Orisson. Some of pilgrims looked like they were settling down for a relaxing day |
I ordered a ham and cheese roll and an fresh orange juice and enquired about accommodation for the night. I was advised that they only had a small tent with an airbag left if I was interested. I declined, sat outside with my brunch, took a few photos and considered my options. Already tired I was looking at another 18kms across the Pyrenees to the next available place to put my head down. I decided to push ahead and put this first challenge behind me today.
The weather was cloudy and cool but perfect for walking with 30lbs (13.6kgs) on your back. The scenery was spectacular but as I climbed higher a heavy mist swept across the mountains. The 18klms was even more difficult than the first part of the ascent to Orisson. It just seemed to be going up forever and just when I thought I could go no further I came to the descent. This too is steep and in many ways even more difficult to manage that when going up.
I met a lot of people today and chatted with them whenever I stopped, or they stopped. I met English, Irish, French, Canadians and a guy from Turkey. We had been overlapping until we both stopped at a water font and got to know a little bit about each other. He worked for a bank in Turkey until 2010 when the bank closed down and he found himself out of work. He then set about forming his own training company and quickly made a great success of it so much so that he could now take time out to walk the Camino.
I was totally exhausted by the time I reached Roncesvalles and could not imaging trying to sleep in a crowded room. So I checked into the Roncevalles Hotel, my last treat I told myself and one I deserved after surviving this first, difficult, challenge. A small bit of me felt guilty because I was determined to use the Albergues as often as possible and here I was spoiling myself on the first night. I asked for a room with a bath and was assured that all the rooms had baths. Nice as the room was it only had a shower (language issue?)but it was big enough for me to sit down in and run a cool spray over the base of my two feet until they felt almost normal again.
I decided that I would not shave over the course of the next couple of weeks although I must confess that I love that clean shaved feeling each morning.
My head is still full of everyday stuff. I had little hope of clearing it out while struggling through this first stage, Maybe tomorrow?
I think I need to be less wordy about my day if I am ever to get this blog finished.
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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow
St Jean-Pied-de-Port:
Roncesvalles:
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Topic: Who walks the Camino.
I gave little thought to the other people I might encounter on the Camino before I set off on this trip. I was focused on my journey and still unclear about my motivation but with a creeping suspicion that it was more spiritual than it was a physical challenge.
So, in the course of my Camino trek, and bear in mind that I was not walking in the peak time, I met people from all over the world, each with a common goal albeit with different reasons for undertaking this personal pilgrimage. Boys and girls, men and women, young and old and every shape and size you can imagine. They came from countries near and far, many with unlimited time to complete their personal pilgrimage and others with only a short break from their 'normal' routine to take this precious time out to meet their own objectives.
Somehow, our different ages, nationalities and drive to undertake this journey becomes as one common experience. You no longer see any difference, just, like minded individuals sharing a common purpose. Perhaps this is one of the great gifts of the Camino experience. I spoke with many young pilgrims who admitted to never having spent time speaking with older people. There are many reasons why this is so common but I believe some of them will go back home with a new outlook and maybe share some of their precious time with their older family members.
The group who I found to be the most inspirational walkers on the Camino were the older women, those around my own age and even older. They just got on with the journey despite injuries, aches and pains. They didn't complain choosing instead to get out there every day and walk.
2: Roncesvalles to Zubiri
Camino Frances - Day 2 - August 28th 2013: Roncesvalles to Zubiri
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| Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes |
Click here for Google Map and my starting point today
I awoke at about 8:30 am feeling refreshed and ready to start day two of my journey. I was aware now that most pilgrims had already starting walking but I was determined to do this my way and not feel compelled to join in the 'race'. This is not the busy season so accommodation should not be a problem, at least that's what I had read prior to leaving Ireland. I took my time, had a leisurely breakfast in the hotel, walked around the very small town and took a few photos and finally got my camino credentials stamped in the monastery. Back in the hotel I decided to try and jettison some items to lighten my backpack. I only managed to get rid of a book I knew I would not have time to read. I rearranged some items, packed up and left at about 11:30am.
I was more relaxed today having put day one behind me. I was not on the road very much but instead walking quiet pathways through the beautiful Spanish countryside. I think I could feel myself beginning, only beginning, to chill out. I found the terrain easier too and I was so confident this pilgrimage would not present me with any difficulties. (a bit early to come to that conclusion)
I stopped in Viskarret for a break. When I started back on the road I was stiff and walking like an old man, even older than me. I felt drained and I had to drop back my pace considerably. After a few kilometres I suddenly felt rejuvenated and my energy was restored, the stiffness was gone again and I was walking faster than at any stage to date. I did notice my hips were getting a bit sore as indeed were my feet, mostly around my toes and the balls of my feet.
I found really nice accommodation in Zubiri at Albergue El palo de avellano. It was very modern, spotlessly clean with every facility you could ask for. At €17 for a bed and breakfast it was dearer than most but worth the difference. Dinner was €12 extra which I booked and I looked forward to my first real shared experience with other pilgrims. (NOTE: To keep it simple I will refer to all those making this journey along the Camino as pilgrims even though many prefer other titles)
Those sitting at the table I joined included a young Spanish couple, two German couples and a Brazilian cyclist. His name is Valentino (what a cool name) and he had been given a two week pass, by his very understanding wife, to complete the Camino Frances on his bike. He did 50Kms today and planned to do 70Kms tomorrow. He was optimistic about completing the journey in time to catch his flight back home. It was here that I first met Stefanie and Daniel a young German couple who became a very important part of my experience on the Camino.
I was relieved to hear so many young people complain about the weight of their backpack and of their aches and pains. It assured me that I was not alone in my suffering and that it was not all age related, old age that is.
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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow
Roncesvalles:
Zubiri:
Topic: Modes of transport.
The first thing to note is that most people have a limited amount of time because they have jobs or family to get back to so they may not be able to complete the entire journey at once. I do not believe there is a single right way to undertake your personal journey. People choose a mode of transport that s suits their specific circumstances determined by many factors most of which we, the observer, may know little about. So, we should never judge or criticise others or in any way feel our method is superior to others.
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| Horsepower: Horse or BMW |
Horsepower: I only came across a few people who appeared to be making the journey on horseback but I do not believe they where travelling very far if I was to judge by the lack of any backpack attached to the horse. This would be a challenging way to travel based on some of the very difficult, rocky, terrain on stretches of the Camino. Perhaps not so for an experienced rider?
This gentleman, above, and his donkey, or burro I think it is in Spanish, did indeed travel the entire Camino Frances and maybe further as I did not establish where he started from. I came across them on many occasions and they always attracted lots attention. I have several photos of them on my flickr page
This man I spotted on the road to the lighthouse at Fisterra and again I have no idea how far to had travelled but it sure is a novel way to make the journey. (Note: I have seen many ways of spelling the name of the town Fisterra but I choose the one above because it's what I saw on the local road signs.)
Perhaps even more unique is this young man on his unicycle, also on the road to the lighthouse.
Walkers did make up the vast majority of the pilgrims on the Camino but even this group occasionally resorted to alternative means of transport. Taxis were used occasionally to take the individuals to the end of a stage if someone was injured or exhausted. Sometimes they were used to bapass industrial areas or to assist an individual to bypass a couple of stages so they would arrive in Santiago to catch their flight. Some groups used hired coaches to take them part of they way, they would then walk for some part of the stage before resuming the rest of the journey on board the coach. Others had their backpacks transported to prebooked hostels or hotels while they walked with their day bag.
I am not judging any of these modes of transport because I simply do not know what constraints they each had to cope with. I am fortunate to enjoy good health and being retired I can afford the time to walk the Camino at my own pace with no limits in terms of time. I also wanted to experience the journey with a fully loaded backpack and to take my chances along the way with securing a place to sleep. Which, to be honest, was rarely a problem.
There were occasions along the way when I was very tempted to take a taxi, especially when I felt unwell but I was determined to complete this journey on foot as I promised myself and to the memory of my brother, Tom.
3: Zubiri to Pamplona
Camino Frances - Day 3 - August 29th 2013: Zubiri to Pamplona
Click here for Google Map and my starting point today
I didn't sleep well last night. This was my first night sleeping in a room with other pilgrims so maybe this had something to do with me not drifting off to sleep. I also kept feeling leg cramps starting up so I was constantly moving my legs to prevent the cramps developing into a full lock down and me screaming in pain. Us men are so bad with pain. Valentino was in the bed next to me and beyond him was Karin, from Germany who I met so many times along the way.
I got up at 5:45am and after the morning rituals went downstairs for breakfast. I met a young couple who live in Sydney, she is from Mulingar originally and he is Australian. I set off from Zubiri at about 7:30am. and I considered walking all the way to Pamplona without stopping. About halfway along this stage I came across a small place serving pizzas cooked fresh or reheated in a stone oven. It was like an oasis in the desert.
I had a large slice of pizza and a fresh orange juice, updated my notes and prepared for the final push to complete this stage. I arrived in Pamplona at about 1pm, checked into Albergue Ibarrola, washed my clothes and lay down for an hour before setting off to explore the city.
I walked all around the centre of the city before making a tour of the fabulous Cathedral. Later I sat outside the famous Cafe Iruna and often associated with Hemmingway. I had a couple of beers and watched the world go by.
A band started to play in a bandstand and everyone just started to dance together. Total strangers, all joining in the spirit of the occasion. It must have been a native dance because everyone knew the steps. Once the music stopped everyone went about their business, Amazing.
I went inside the Cafe Iruna and had dinner before setting off for the Albergue before lock out.
The city had come alive with young people sitting down all over the streets, eating, drinking and just having a great time, Recession, what recession.
Back in the Albergue I took a scissors to the end of my sleeping bag liner because I always sleep with my feet sticking out from under the covers.
__________________________________________________________
Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow
Why do people walk the Camino and if they were to do it all over again, now knowing what they know, would their motivation be any different?
When I first decided to undertake this walk it was just another item on my bucket list. Over time, as I have already written about, my motivation changed. This was partly down to what I read about the challenge but also by events in my life. Probably the most significant being the death of my brother Tom, at the age of just 64, on April 6th 2013. Tom and I had often spoke about the Camino and I know he would love to have been able to make the trip but due to his poor health it was not possible. He was a very religious man and I know his pilgrimage would have differed somewhat to my own. While I am not religious I am spiritual and after Tom died I decided that I would take lock of Tom's hair with me so that he could, in spirit at least, complete the walk. More about that later... I also wanted some time alone, some peace and quiet to reflect of just about anything that came into my head. To achieve these objectives I declared I would walk alone. I did not shun company but dipped in and out briefly with other individuals before breaking away again to be with my own thoughts.
Another idea I had before setting off was that I would chat with people, listen to their stories and document it here on the blog. I changed my mind on this almost as soon as I started walking. Most people were very open and only too willing to share their stories. Many were inspirational, some were heart breaking, in fact, there were as many reasons as there were pilgrims. I could not tell their stories, they were too personal and it was their story to tell should they ever wish to go public on that.
So, I am happy to share my motivation and to list why some others travel this path without attaching the story to any individuals.
To Give Thanks:
Some were walking to give thanks for their life, for recovering from a serious illness themselves or on behalf of others in recovery
For the dead:
Many walked the Camino to remember a family member or friend who died. They may have died in the distant past or very recently. It was heart breaking to hear some stories, children who died, siblings, parents and partners. Some died of natural causes while others died in tragic circumstances
To Forget:
I met some who wanted to put a period of their life behind them and start anew. People who were separated from spouse or family members. Others recovering from depression who wanted to push themselves, to challenge themselves and confront their fears.
To Understand:
Some were trying to understand some part of their life which has been causing them grief and worry and they are seeking solutions a remedy to let them move on or get on with others.
To Explore:
Most of the young people I met were doing the Camino because it was there or they were about to start their working life after completing college and they felt this may be the last opportunity they will have for many years to complete the journey in one go.
To meet like minded people:
There is a social aspect to the Camino too and many people who come back time after time to either walk a part of the way, repeat the whole route over and over or try different routes will tell you that they love meeting people from every walk of life and spending some time in their company.
Religious:
It was no surprise to find a religious aspect associated with the motivation of pilgrims. What was surprising though was how people did not openly display this side of their pilgrimage. People were quietly getting on with it without any overt display of piety. Not that such displays would have bothered me as I expected to see it all along the way. As I spoke with some people the subject might arise and it was lovely to hear how strong their faith was and how much they enjoyed that aspect of their personal experience. Yes, even me, a stone cold atheist , can appreciate and tolerate the belief system of others : ).
Actually, I must tell you a story while we are on this subject and you can make up your own mind about what actually happened. It was September 4th. and I had just taken a short break in Navarette. I was only back on my way when I came across a church and I decided to stop and take a few photos.
I took off my backpack and placed it against a tree across the pathway and opposite the entrance to the church, The base of the tree had a decorative iron grid all the way around it so I inserted my walking poles in the holes of this decorative grid so they would stand up in front of my backpack and ensure I would not walk off without them.
With the photos taken I set off again. About 50Mts up the road I noticed one of my poles was making a bit of a racket . I checked it and noticed that the rubber cover was missing, I guessed it must have come off as I removed the pole from the grid. I went back, breaking one of my little rules that I would never go back, always forward. I could see the rubber cover about 25cm (10ins for my generation) below the grid surface. I went down on my knees to see if |I could get my hand through the grid to retrieve the rubber and get back on my way. I reached it and drew it back up. So, there I was on my knees outside a church when I noticed, in the corner of my eye, a couple probably of my generation, coming in my direction and joining their hands as if in prayer. Now at my age getting up from a kneeling position is not done in one swift action, instead, it is a slow process. It occurred to me that they assumed I was in prayer and were going to join me. I may have been wrong but I did decide that if they got to me and started to pray ahead of me getting to my feet that I would stay put and join in the ritual rather than embarrass them in their very well meaning gesture. As I got to my feet and they figured out what was going on they made a gentle change to their trajectory and were on their way. I was touched by what I thought had just happened but maybe they were just curious about this old guy rummaging around the base of a tree. They probably have a very different entry in their blog recalling this nutter and what they thought I was up to? What do you think? I like my version : )
 |
| Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes |
 |
| Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes |
Click here for Google Map and my starting point today
I didn't sleep well last night. This was my first night sleeping in a room with other pilgrims so maybe this had something to do with me not drifting off to sleep. I also kept feeling leg cramps starting up so I was constantly moving my legs to prevent the cramps developing into a full lock down and me screaming in pain. Us men are so bad with pain. Valentino was in the bed next to me and beyond him was Karin, from Germany who I met so many times along the way.
I got up at 5:45am and after the morning rituals went downstairs for breakfast. I met a young couple who live in Sydney, she is from Mulingar originally and he is Australian. I set off from Zubiri at about 7:30am. and I considered walking all the way to Pamplona without stopping. About halfway along this stage I came across a small place serving pizzas cooked fresh or reheated in a stone oven. It was like an oasis in the desert.
I had a large slice of pizza and a fresh orange juice, updated my notes and prepared for the final push to complete this stage. I arrived in Pamplona at about 1pm, checked into Albergue Ibarrola, washed my clothes and lay down for an hour before setting off to explore the city.
I walked all around the centre of the city before making a tour of the fabulous Cathedral. Later I sat outside the famous Cafe Iruna and often associated with Hemmingway. I had a couple of beers and watched the world go by.
A band started to play in a bandstand and everyone just started to dance together. Total strangers, all joining in the spirit of the occasion. It must have been a native dance because everyone knew the steps. Once the music stopped everyone went about their business, Amazing.
I went inside the Cafe Iruna and had dinner before setting off for the Albergue before lock out.
The city had come alive with young people sitting down all over the streets, eating, drinking and just having a great time, Recession, what recession.
Back in the Albergue I took a scissors to the end of my sleeping bag liner because I always sleep with my feet sticking out from under the covers.
__________________________________________________________
Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow
Zubiri:
Pamplona:
______________________________________________________
Topic: Why walk the Camino
Why do people walk the Camino and if they were to do it all over again, now knowing what they know, would their motivation be any different?
When I first decided to undertake this walk it was just another item on my bucket list. Over time, as I have already written about, my motivation changed. This was partly down to what I read about the challenge but also by events in my life. Probably the most significant being the death of my brother Tom, at the age of just 64, on April 6th 2013. Tom and I had often spoke about the Camino and I know he would love to have been able to make the trip but due to his poor health it was not possible. He was a very religious man and I know his pilgrimage would have differed somewhat to my own. While I am not religious I am spiritual and after Tom died I decided that I would take lock of Tom's hair with me so that he could, in spirit at least, complete the walk. More about that later... I also wanted some time alone, some peace and quiet to reflect of just about anything that came into my head. To achieve these objectives I declared I would walk alone. I did not shun company but dipped in and out briefly with other individuals before breaking away again to be with my own thoughts.
Another idea I had before setting off was that I would chat with people, listen to their stories and document it here on the blog. I changed my mind on this almost as soon as I started walking. Most people were very open and only too willing to share their stories. Many were inspirational, some were heart breaking, in fact, there were as many reasons as there were pilgrims. I could not tell their stories, they were too personal and it was their story to tell should they ever wish to go public on that.
So, I am happy to share my motivation and to list why some others travel this path without attaching the story to any individuals.
To Give Thanks:
Some were walking to give thanks for their life, for recovering from a serious illness themselves or on behalf of others in recovery
For the dead:
Many walked the Camino to remember a family member or friend who died. They may have died in the distant past or very recently. It was heart breaking to hear some stories, children who died, siblings, parents and partners. Some died of natural causes while others died in tragic circumstances
To Forget:
I met some who wanted to put a period of their life behind them and start anew. People who were separated from spouse or family members. Others recovering from depression who wanted to push themselves, to challenge themselves and confront their fears.
To Understand:
Some were trying to understand some part of their life which has been causing them grief and worry and they are seeking solutions a remedy to let them move on or get on with others.
To Explore:
Most of the young people I met were doing the Camino because it was there or they were about to start their working life after completing college and they felt this may be the last opportunity they will have for many years to complete the journey in one go.
To meet like minded people:
There is a social aspect to the Camino too and many people who come back time after time to either walk a part of the way, repeat the whole route over and over or try different routes will tell you that they love meeting people from every walk of life and spending some time in their company.
Religious:
It was no surprise to find a religious aspect associated with the motivation of pilgrims. What was surprising though was how people did not openly display this side of their pilgrimage. People were quietly getting on with it without any overt display of piety. Not that such displays would have bothered me as I expected to see it all along the way. As I spoke with some people the subject might arise and it was lovely to hear how strong their faith was and how much they enjoyed that aspect of their personal experience. Yes, even me, a stone cold atheist , can appreciate and tolerate the belief system of others : ).
Actually, I must tell you a story while we are on this subject and you can make up your own mind about what actually happened. It was September 4th. and I had just taken a short break in Navarette. I was only back on my way when I came across a church and I decided to stop and take a few photos.
I took off my backpack and placed it against a tree across the pathway and opposite the entrance to the church, The base of the tree had a decorative iron grid all the way around it so I inserted my walking poles in the holes of this decorative grid so they would stand up in front of my backpack and ensure I would not walk off without them.
With the photos taken I set off again. About 50Mts up the road I noticed one of my poles was making a bit of a racket . I checked it and noticed that the rubber cover was missing, I guessed it must have come off as I removed the pole from the grid. I went back, breaking one of my little rules that I would never go back, always forward. I could see the rubber cover about 25cm (10ins for my generation) below the grid surface. I went down on my knees to see if |I could get my hand through the grid to retrieve the rubber and get back on my way. I reached it and drew it back up. So, there I was on my knees outside a church when I noticed, in the corner of my eye, a couple probably of my generation, coming in my direction and joining their hands as if in prayer. Now at my age getting up from a kneeling position is not done in one swift action, instead, it is a slow process. It occurred to me that they assumed I was in prayer and were going to join me. I may have been wrong but I did decide that if they got to me and started to pray ahead of me getting to my feet that I would stay put and join in the ritual rather than embarrass them in their very well meaning gesture. As I got to my feet and they figured out what was going on they made a gentle change to their trajectory and were on their way. I was touched by what I thought had just happened but maybe they were just curious about this old guy rummaging around the base of a tree. They probably have a very different entry in their blog recalling this nutter and what they thought I was up to? What do you think? I like my version : )
4. Pamplona to Puente la Reina
Camino Frances - Day 4 - August 30th 2013: Pamplona to Puente la Reina
Click here for Google Map and my starting point today
I got up around 6am and went about the morning rituals again. Had a light breakfast and eventually set off at about 8am leaving Pamplona behind and setting my sights on Puente La Reina. A short distance into my walk I had my first meeting up with Michael and his wife Jane a really nice couple from the UK. He is a retired anaesthetist having worked in both in the UK and Australia. They were great company today and every time our paths crossed.
Wind Turbines:
From Cizur Menor I could see the massive wind turbines stretching all across the mountains in the distance. They looked so far away and yet marked only the half way point of the walk I planned for today. I love the open countryside and have often commented to others about building or structures that ruin the landscape, yet, I love these wind turbines. I know people can be divided on the subject and there is much debate about the noise when in close proximity to them. There was hardly a day while walking the Camino that I could not catch sight of them in the distance. Last year while on a US road trip they were dotted all along the west coast. I would love to see more of them in Ireland. Anyway, I digress, back to day 4 of my Camino experience.
Just as I was leaving Cizur Menor I heard the cries of a young baby coming from a small housing estate on the outskirts of the town. (see Topic below)
I am nursing blisters on the balls of both my feet today as well as some on my toes. My thighs were very painful for the first hour today too but that eased off gradually. I met a Russian guy who said he changes his socks every two hours and never gets a blister, too late now.
Upon reaching Alto del Perdon you can see the larger than life metal sculptures dedicated to the pilgrims who walk the Camino. The views from here are spectacular. You may also get up close to the 'beautiful' wind turbines : ) I met Peter here, an Irish guy from Sligo but living in Dublin, he took the photo of me in front of the metal pilgrims. I also met Aileen and a couple who are actually friends with a family living very close to where I live. It's a small world.
As each pilgrim takes breaks at different times along the way it is normal to pass them and then they pass you out. Sometimes you will meet up and chat while taking a break or walk together for a brief while and get to know each other a little better. There is a great sense of having this common objective and unfortunately the same aches, pains and blisters.
I made my way through Puente la Reina because the hostel Albergue Apostol, situated at the far end of the town, boasted a swimming pool. The trek up to hostel at the end of a long walk is steep but worth the effort. It's modern with great facilities. I never made it to the pool. I washed all my clothes, sorted out my gear, again, I may yet find the most efficient way to do this.
At dinner I sat with John from Knocklyon, Vinny from Sligo but living in Clonmel. They were travelling on their bikes. Also at the table was Christine from Toronto, a young woman with an incredible knowledge of soccer not just in Canada and the US but right across the globe. We had good craic together. Also at the table, just outside my very limited hearing when in groups, was Antoinette from Leitrim and Ellie from Victoria in Southern Australia. I met with both Ellie and Antoinette on many more occasions over the course of my journey.
Returning to my bed I turned my attention to my blistered feet. I decided I would put fresh dressing on them in the morning.
____________________________________________________________
Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow
I think , as we make our way through life, we can become desensitised to the real world, the suffering and pain, the hunger and the strife all across the globe. We may acknowledge a situation or the suffering of others, we may make offers to help or give some small financial support but then move on without really empathising with those less fortunate than ourselves. I know there are many who devote their lives to helping others so I am not talking about them. I am talking about myself and most other people I know. How have we become so numb, so blind to everything that's wrong with the world and how do we continue to let it happen. I am not going to try and answer my own question, I'm just putting it out there. We become desensitised.
What I have noticed as I start to relax, to clear out all the clutter in my head, is that I have a renewed awareness. The further I go along the Camino, walking for hours on my own, the more I start to look into those things that are really important to me in my life. I think I am being resensitised (if that's a word, or two) to my surroundings. There are some stories I will relate to you later about my brother and my mother that would not have occurred had I not set out on this journey. Memories buried deep in my past that came to me while walking but that's for a different topic.
Talking about being resensitised, let me give you a couple of examples.
I was just outside Cizur Menor, observing the wind turbines all across the mountainside up to Alto del Perdon, the halfway point of this stage, when I heard the cries of a very young child. I looked back to where I believed the cries were coming from, it was a small housing estate on the outskirts of the town, about two or three hundred meters behind me. I am a father and grandfather and like most parents we know the different cries of a child, they want food, changing, comforting etc. This cry struck me in my heart, I was stopped in my tracks unable to move and undecided what to do. I knew I could do nothing because it was really just a baby crying and sooner or later they would be comforted but I knew then that the protective layers I had built around myself, the same layers many of us build, were falling away and I was more in touch with my surrounding and my feeling than I had been for many years.
One evening, towards the end of my journey I received word from my Dad that an old friend had just a few short days to live after a long and painful struggle with cancer. I have not seen her for many years but she is still best friend to one of my sisters. I knew my sister's heart would be broken. I called my sister the next day while on the road and despite the fact that I had not seen this old friend for many years, the conversation with my sister brought the full scale of this tragic episode into context and it hit me like a sledge hammer. I had to stop walking and spent some time thinking about her and memories came back to me. I thought about how she must be feeling, her pain and now confronted with the end of her life. It's at these times that I would like to believe in some deity, someone to pray to but that not who I am. She died before I got home. Being resensitised is a wonderful experience but also a painful one.
|
| Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes |
 |
| Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes |
Click here for Google Map and my starting point today
I got up around 6am and went about the morning rituals again. Had a light breakfast and eventually set off at about 8am leaving Pamplona behind and setting my sights on Puente La Reina. A short distance into my walk I had my first meeting up with Michael and his wife Jane a really nice couple from the UK. He is a retired anaesthetist having worked in both in the UK and Australia. They were great company today and every time our paths crossed.
Wind Turbines:From Cizur Menor I could see the massive wind turbines stretching all across the mountains in the distance. They looked so far away and yet marked only the half way point of the walk I planned for today. I love the open countryside and have often commented to others about building or structures that ruin the landscape, yet, I love these wind turbines. I know people can be divided on the subject and there is much debate about the noise when in close proximity to them. There was hardly a day while walking the Camino that I could not catch sight of them in the distance. Last year while on a US road trip they were dotted all along the west coast. I would love to see more of them in Ireland. Anyway, I digress, back to day 4 of my Camino experience.
Just as I was leaving Cizur Menor I heard the cries of a young baby coming from a small housing estate on the outskirts of the town. (see Topic below)
I am nursing blisters on the balls of both my feet today as well as some on my toes. My thighs were very painful for the first hour today too but that eased off gradually. I met a Russian guy who said he changes his socks every two hours and never gets a blister, too late now. Upon reaching Alto del Perdon you can see the larger than life metal sculptures dedicated to the pilgrims who walk the Camino. The views from here are spectacular. You may also get up close to the 'beautiful' wind turbines : ) I met Peter here, an Irish guy from Sligo but living in Dublin, he took the photo of me in front of the metal pilgrims. I also met Aileen and a couple who are actually friends with a family living very close to where I live. It's a small world.
As each pilgrim takes breaks at different times along the way it is normal to pass them and then they pass you out. Sometimes you will meet up and chat while taking a break or walk together for a brief while and get to know each other a little better. There is a great sense of having this common objective and unfortunately the same aches, pains and blisters.
I made my way through Puente la Reina because the hostel Albergue Apostol, situated at the far end of the town, boasted a swimming pool. The trek up to hostel at the end of a long walk is steep but worth the effort. It's modern with great facilities. I never made it to the pool. I washed all my clothes, sorted out my gear, again, I may yet find the most efficient way to do this.
At dinner I sat with John from Knocklyon, Vinny from Sligo but living in Clonmel. They were travelling on their bikes. Also at the table was Christine from Toronto, a young woman with an incredible knowledge of soccer not just in Canada and the US but right across the globe. We had good craic together. Also at the table, just outside my very limited hearing when in groups, was Antoinette from Leitrim and Ellie from Victoria in Southern Australia. I met with both Ellie and Antoinette on many more occasions over the course of my journey.
Returning to my bed I turned my attention to my blistered feet. I decided I would put fresh dressing on them in the morning.
____________________________________________________________
Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow
Pamplona:
Cizur Menor:
Wikipedia on Cizur Menor - This is Spanish version, use the 'Translate' button for your language.
Alto del Perdon:
Puerte la Reina:
Wikipedia on Puerta la Reina - This is Spanish version, use the 'Translate' button for your language.
_________________________________________
Topic: Desensitised - ResensitisedI think , as we make our way through life, we can become desensitised to the real world, the suffering and pain, the hunger and the strife all across the globe. We may acknowledge a situation or the suffering of others, we may make offers to help or give some small financial support but then move on without really empathising with those less fortunate than ourselves. I know there are many who devote their lives to helping others so I am not talking about them. I am talking about myself and most other people I know. How have we become so numb, so blind to everything that's wrong with the world and how do we continue to let it happen. I am not going to try and answer my own question, I'm just putting it out there. We become desensitised.
What I have noticed as I start to relax, to clear out all the clutter in my head, is that I have a renewed awareness. The further I go along the Camino, walking for hours on my own, the more I start to look into those things that are really important to me in my life. I think I am being resensitised (if that's a word, or two) to my surroundings. There are some stories I will relate to you later about my brother and my mother that would not have occurred had I not set out on this journey. Memories buried deep in my past that came to me while walking but that's for a different topic.
Talking about being resensitised, let me give you a couple of examples.
I was just outside Cizur Menor, observing the wind turbines all across the mountainside up to Alto del Perdon, the halfway point of this stage, when I heard the cries of a very young child. I looked back to where I believed the cries were coming from, it was a small housing estate on the outskirts of the town, about two or three hundred meters behind me. I am a father and grandfather and like most parents we know the different cries of a child, they want food, changing, comforting etc. This cry struck me in my heart, I was stopped in my tracks unable to move and undecided what to do. I knew I could do nothing because it was really just a baby crying and sooner or later they would be comforted but I knew then that the protective layers I had built around myself, the same layers many of us build, were falling away and I was more in touch with my surrounding and my feeling than I had been for many years.One evening, towards the end of my journey I received word from my Dad that an old friend had just a few short days to live after a long and painful struggle with cancer. I have not seen her for many years but she is still best friend to one of my sisters. I knew my sister's heart would be broken. I called my sister the next day while on the road and despite the fact that I had not seen this old friend for many years, the conversation with my sister brought the full scale of this tragic episode into context and it hit me like a sledge hammer. I had to stop walking and spent some time thinking about her and memories came back to me. I thought about how she must be feeling, her pain and now confronted with the end of her life. It's at these times that I would like to believe in some deity, someone to pray to but that not who I am. She died before I got home. Being resensitised is a wonderful experience but also a painful one.
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