Camino Frances - Day 2 - August 28th 2013: Roncesvalles to Zubiri
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| Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes |
Click here for Google Map and my starting point today
I awoke at about 8:30 am feeling refreshed and ready to start day two of my journey. I was aware now that most pilgrims had already starting walking but I was determined to do this my way and not feel compelled to join in the 'race'. This is not the busy season so accommodation should not be a problem, at least that's what I had read prior to leaving Ireland. I took my time, had a leisurely breakfast in the hotel, walked around the very small town and took a few photos and finally got my camino credentials stamped in the monastery. Back in the hotel I decided to try and jettison some items to lighten my backpack. I only managed to get rid of a book I knew I would not have time to read. I rearranged some items, packed up and left at about 11:30am.
I was more relaxed today having put day one behind me. I was not on the road very much but instead walking quiet pathways through the beautiful Spanish countryside. I think I could feel myself beginning, only beginning, to chill out. I found the terrain easier too and I was so confident this pilgrimage would not present me with any difficulties. (a bit early to come to that conclusion)
I stopped in Viskarret for a break. When I started back on the road I was stiff and walking like an old man, even older than me. I felt drained and I had to drop back my pace considerably. After a few kilometres I suddenly felt rejuvenated and my energy was restored, the stiffness was gone again and I was walking faster than at any stage to date. I did notice my hips were getting a bit sore as indeed were my feet, mostly around my toes and the balls of my feet.
I found really nice accommodation in Zubiri at Albergue El palo de avellano. It was very modern, spotlessly clean with every facility you could ask for. At €17 for a bed and breakfast it was dearer than most but worth the difference. Dinner was €12 extra which I booked and I looked forward to my first real shared experience with other pilgrims. (NOTE: To keep it simple I will refer to all those making this journey along the Camino as pilgrims even though many prefer other titles)
Those sitting at the table I joined included a young Spanish couple, two German couples and a Brazilian cyclist. His name is Valentino (what a cool name) and he had been given a two week pass, by his very understanding wife, to complete the Camino Frances on his bike. He did 50Kms today and planned to do 70Kms tomorrow. He was optimistic about completing the journey in time to catch his flight back home. It was here that I first met Stefanie and Daniel a young German couple who became a very important part of my experience on the Camino.
I was relieved to hear so many young people complain about the weight of their backpack and of their aches and pains. It assured me that I was not alone in my suffering and that it was not all age related, old age that is.
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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow
Roncesvalles:
Zubiri:
Topic: Modes of transport.
The first thing to note is that most people have a limited amount of time because they have jobs or family to get back to so they may not be able to complete the entire journey at once. I do not believe there is a single right way to undertake your personal journey. People choose a mode of transport that s suits their specific circumstances determined by many factors most of which we, the observer, may know little about. So, we should never judge or criticise others or in any way feel our method is superior to others.
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| Horsepower: Horse or BMW |
Horsepower: I only came across a few people who appeared to be making the journey on horseback but I do not believe they where travelling very far if I was to judge by the lack of any backpack attached to the horse. This would be a challenging way to travel based on some of the very difficult, rocky, terrain on stretches of the Camino. Perhaps not so for an experienced rider?
This gentleman, above, and his donkey, or burro I think it is in Spanish, did indeed travel the entire Camino Frances and maybe further as I did not establish where he started from. I came across them on many occasions and they always attracted lots attention. I have several photos of them on my flickr page
This man I spotted on the road to the lighthouse at Fisterra and again I have no idea how far to had travelled but it sure is a novel way to make the journey. (Note: I have seen many ways of spelling the name of the town Fisterra but I choose the one above because it's what I saw on the local road signs.)
Perhaps even more unique is this young man on his unicycle, also on the road to the lighthouse.
Walkers did make up the vast majority of the pilgrims on the Camino but even this group occasionally resorted to alternative means of transport. Taxis were used occasionally to take the individuals to the end of a stage if someone was injured or exhausted. Sometimes they were used to bapass industrial areas or to assist an individual to bypass a couple of stages so they would arrive in Santiago to catch their flight. Some groups used hired coaches to take them part of they way, they would then walk for some part of the stage before resuming the rest of the journey on board the coach. Others had their backpacks transported to prebooked hostels or hotels while they walked with their day bag.
I am not judging any of these modes of transport because I simply do not know what constraints they each had to cope with. I am fortunate to enjoy good health and being retired I can afford the time to walk the Camino at my own pace with no limits in terms of time. I also wanted to experience the journey with a fully loaded backpack and to take my chances along the way with securing a place to sleep. Which, to be honest, was rarely a problem.
There were occasions along the way when I was very tempted to take a taxi, especially when I felt unwell but I was determined to complete this journey on foot as I promised myself and to the memory of my brother, Tom.
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