11. Belorado to Agés

Camino Frances - Day 12 - September 7th. 2013: Belorado to Agés (11th day walking)
Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes













Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes













Click here for Google Map and my starting point today
As promised last night, the ladies were up 4:30 and making final preparation for another day of walking. They set off at 5am but not before apologising to me if they woke me up and assisting Ed with dressing his blistered feet.  Ed left shortly afterwards.

Getting lost on the wrong mountain:
I got up and I was ready to start my own day by 5:45am. This was my earliest start to date. It was pitch black outside so I popped on my head lamp and made my way out of the town and across the main road. Despite having placed new batteries in my head lamp before leaving home it was not performing very well so it was very difficult to locate the arrows and signs. To make it worse there were no other pilgrims around to verify my decisions.  I followed the pathway running parallel to the motorway before turning left onto a sleep incline. I did occur to me that I may have gone astray but I had not seen an alternative route. It was very misty which deprived me of any possibility of see others above or below me. I stupidly continued up the mountain path but became increasing concerned that I had not come across another pilgrim or any of the usual signs. I finally decided to go back until I found a sign or even wait for the mist to lift or  the sun to rise. 

75 minutes later I was back on the path next to the motorway. I could now see the sign I missed and the pilgrims heading straight ahead where I had taken a left turn. Initially I felt deflated having expended so much energy only to find myself back at the beginning of the walk I had planned for the day. I put it behind me, chalked it up to experience and got on with the walking. 

Mountain trails in Ireland?
I stopped in Epinosa for breakfast. Karin and Sabina arrived shortly afterwards and we shared a table. I told them about my stupidity that morning and they echoed the warning I had received from other in the past about walking alone in the dark. In the course of our conversation they asked me if there were any mountain trails in Ireland because they had been under the impression that there were none. I was so surprised that they had this impression and rattled off many of the most popular routes and suggested they Google the many sites dedicated to the thousands of trails across the island. I wonder if our tourist board are aware of this impression and how much tourism we are missing because we are not selling this aspect of our beautiful country.

Rain!
Ponchos out today
It had been misty since early morning and becoming increasingly damp as the day progressed. As I left Epinosa there was a loud clap of thunder followed by rain. It was time to break out the poncho. The rain gear was taken off and put back on over the next couple of hours. The weather generally had been too hot for me so at one level I welcomed the rain and the cloud cover for a change.

I took a number of one minute breaks to adjust my backpack, try to locate a persistent squeaky noise coming from my shoulder, but otherwise I did not break until I reached San Juan. 

I had expected today to be a difficult walk looking at the contour maps and compounded by my own stupidity at the start. I was monitoring my progress and counting down the peaks as I ascended each one. I never noticed the third peak and found myself in San Juan earlier than I expected. 

On reaching San Juan I found Ed sitting there, having a beer, with Jo, Mary and Kathy. They had already checked into the local Albergue. I sat with them and enjoyed a coffee and some food before setting off again for my planned destination, Agés. 

Ed in San Juan
The walk from San Juan to Agés is through beautiful woodland. However my mind was on the rolling thunder in the distance and the constant threat of a downpour. After checking into the Albergue, El Pajar, I washed, changed, and joined Jim, Bob, Ger, Peggy and Scott for a couple of beers. Then the rains came along with the thunder and lightening. I went back to my bed to try and nap but instead spend some time on my notes and photos. The evening meal was simple but really nice  I even enjoyed a second helping of Paella. 

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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow 

Belorado:
Images of Belorado on the internet
Wikipedia on Belorado - This is Spanish version, use the 'Translate' button for your language.
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Topic: My Mother

Today, September 7th.,  was very special for me because I had great experience, memory, of my mother. My mother died on August 20th 2007 at the good age of 85. She had Alzheimer's disease for many years but thankfully never reached the stage where she could not recognise my Dad or any of her children. She even remembered our first grandchild, her first great grandchild, Conor, but sadly had to be reminded about the other great grandchildren each time she met them. 

I have always been uncertain about my emotional response after she died. Yes, I was devastated because I loved her very much and I suppose there was an inevitability of that day due to her age and her illness, but I still came as a shock. I don't think I ever really mourned her death. I'm not sure what the process is supposed to be, so perhaps I did in my own way. Anyway, I had lots of thoughts about her today and not just fleeting thoughts but long lost memories. I mentioned before about how the Camino affords us the opportunity to clear our head and reach into our mind. The images in my mind were crystal clear. I saw my mother as she was when I was a child and she a young woman. These images were buried deep in my mind and I was elated and saddened as I thought about this young woman who was my mother. I thought about how she too had dreams about her life as a woman, as a mother and wife and to what degree did she achieve her dreams. I was tearful but felt so happy to have had these thoughts and the image of a beautiful smiling young woman who was my mother. 

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