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| Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes |
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| Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes |
Click here for Google Map and my starting point for today
I set off around 7am but never really got into my stride. Feeling very tired from the moment I took my first few steps along the path and through the fields before reaching the roadside. Everyone else seemed to be walking faster than me today.
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| I made an early start as you can see from this shot of the sun rising sometime after I set off from Hospital de Órbigo |
By the time I reached Astorga I felt I had done enough and gave some consideration to calling it a day and checking into a Albergue for a nap. I even thought about checking in, taking a shower and setting off again in the hope that I would find my second wind. I think my second wind was having a nap and unaware of my needs. I stopped at a small cafe in Astorga and ordered breakfast, another omelet, bread and green tea. I sat at the only table outside the cafe, I was joined by Arthur from Melbourne. Arthur is a retired banker, I met a few of them and liked them all despite the fact that a small group of their colleagues, those at the top of the industry, had screwed the world and drove us all into recession, depression. Arthur's a really nice guy so I am not including him in my little rant. We spoke about the global recession, family, and the joy of grandchildren. Our paths crossed many times after this, our first time today. He started from León and was going all the way to Santiago. He would be joining his wife on a cruise when he finishes this trip. He highly recommends taking a cruise as an alternative to other more traditional holiday options. So many people say the same but we have not booked one yet.
I stopped again just outside Astorga took off my socks, dried my feet, reapplied Vaseline and put on a clean pair of liner socks. I did not have a dry pair of heavy socks at this time. I repeated this routine again when I took another break. It was a long day but I actually walked the last 10Klms faster than any of the previous 30Klms. Maybe this sock routine was working?
I love the array of casual, makeshift, furniture just dotted along the Camino. (See photo on the left and Topic: Makeshift seating on the Camino, below)
Chance meeting with Terry:
I checked into the first Albergue as I came into Rabanal del Camino, I think it was the Muni. After a cold shower, not by choice but it was refreshing after the long hot walk. I met Terence or Terry as he preferred to be called. Terry, from Northern Ireland, is a great talker and easy to listen to. Over a pint (yes still on the pints) he told me about his family and why he was walking the Camino. His story brought tears to my eyes as so many others did on this very special journey. Terry's story is his to tell so I will not get into that but it is only when you meet people like him you realise how lucky you may be to have avoided similar suffering to his. We also talked about the work he did on the faculty computer network at Ulster University. He was able to go way back and in doing so brought back a lot of memories for me of earlier computer systems. We also talked about the troubles in Northern Ireland and how this impacted on him and his friends.
I went off to take a few photos before coming back to meet up with Terry again. We went to dinner together. He was great company, sadly I did not bump into him again after this meeting but he did leave a lasting impression on me and I though about his story many times since our chance meeting. I really hope Terry's Camino experience helped him realise his expectations. I think perhaps he had already done so by the time we met. Back in the Albergue I updated my notes but found it hard t forget the stories I heard today. Before too long re tiredness took over and sleep came with greater ease than it had for many weeks. Maybe it was the sleep of someone who felt very fortunate and grateful for my life and that of my extended family.
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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow
Images of Hospital de Órbigo on the internet
Wikipedia on Hospital de Órbigo
Astorga:
Images of Astorga on the internet
Wikipedia on Astorga
Rabanal del Camino:
Images of Rabanal del Camino on the internet
Wikipedia on Rabanal del Camino
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Topic: Makeshift seating on the Camino
My photos here represent just a very small percentage of the great number of makeshift seating all along the Camino. I often thought about the people who put the these seats in place, at random, just at the side of the road, under trees and on remote tracks. Of course I am making the assumption that they have, in fact, been put there by locals for the pilgrims. I could be wrong. Maybe these same locals sit by the side of the road and gaze upon pilgrim after weary pilgrim making their way to Santiago. 
If, as I suspect, they have been put there for the weary traveller then I would like to thank these individuals for their kindness and consideration. If they were placed there for the pilgrims then I also suspect that they were put in place by the older people in the community. I say this because it is almost always the older people who actually recognise you while walking and offer a friendly 'Buen Camino'. You rarely get this from younger people.
As you can see from my photographs the seating can be made from almost any material and some look like they would not withstand the assault of a large, or ever a modest size bottom. However, it's the thought that counts, yes?I never actually used these seats but it's nice to think that these local people are looking after us visitors. Come to think of it I don't ever remember seeing anyone, local or pilgrim, using the informal, makeshift, seating. I did from time to time use the more formal benches and chairs but that's because I far exceed the modest size bottom that these locally assembled offerings could be expected to support.
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